tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48758240397795567842011-11-27T16:34:35.847-08:00Photo gallery and everything you wanted to know about photography, photography techniques, photography lessons and tutorials.molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.comBlogger1311100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-38078916204782344712009-06-25T01:01:00.000-07:002009-06-26T01:26:30.546-07:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/pathwalk.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/pathwalk.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><br /><br />Camera Model Name: Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL<br />Tv(Shutter Speed): 8Sec.<br />Av(Aperture Value): F8.0<br />Metering Modes: Evaluative metering<br />Exposure Compensation: 0<br />ISO Speed: 100<br />Lens: 10-20mm<br />Focal Length: 10.0 mm<br />Flash: Off<br />AF mode: Manual (MF)<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3807891620478234471?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-61738594208150406372009-06-20T01:18:00.000-07:002009-06-20T01:18:00.715-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_9961.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_9961.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><p></p><br />Camera Model Name: Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL<br />Tv(Shutter Speed): 1/250Sec.<br />Av(Aperture Value): F5.6<br />Metering Modes: Evaluative metering<br />Exposure Compensation: 0<br />ISO Speed: 100<br />Lens: EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6<br />Focal Length: 55.0 mm<br />Flash: Off<br />White Balance: Auto<br />AF mode: AI Servo AF<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6173859420815040637?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-15787228574193355662009-06-14T01:18:00.000-07:002009-06-13T02:33:28.721-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/desert.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/desert.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><p></p><br /><br />Camera Model Name: Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL<br />Shooting Date/Time: 6/12/2009 15:44:58<br />Tv(Shutter Speed): 1/250Sec.<br />Av(Aperture Value): F8.0<br />Metering Modes: Evaluative metering<br />Exposure Compensation: 0<br />ISO Speed: 100<br />Lens: EF35-105/4.5-5.6 USM<br />Focal Length: 105.0 mm<br />Flash: Off<br />White Balance: Auto<br />AF mode: One-Shot AF<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1578722857419335566?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-2694171278251393412009-06-13T01:39:00.000-07:002009-06-13T01:53:54.897-07:00<a href="http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_3534.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_3534.jpg" border="0" width="400" height="267" alt="low light" /></a><br /><br />Exif <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/20 sec. <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8 <br />ISO: 1600 <br />Focal Length: 50mm <br />Exposure Program: Manual<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-269417127825139341?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-12337391262534711922009-04-18T00:30:00.000-07:002009-04-18T00:30:00.948-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6967.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6967.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1233739126253471192?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-23908397628311812872009-04-11T00:18:00.000-07:002009-04-11T00:18:00.566-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6518.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6518.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-2390839762831181287?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-67480574238821045002009-04-08T00:17:00.000-07:002009-04-08T00:17:00.759-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6549.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6549.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6748057423882104500?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-34602025955722641752009-04-07T00:15:00.000-07:002009-04-07T00:15:00.116-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6697.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6697.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3460202595572264175?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-9956490349342989902009-04-05T00:14:00.000-07:002009-04-05T00:14:00.284-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_7373.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_7373.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-995649034934298990?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-59915219202960361442009-04-03T00:13:00.000-07:002009-04-03T00:13:00.349-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_8045.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_8045.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5991521920296036144?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-57179304830764039282009-03-31T00:11:00.000-07:002009-03-31T00:11:00.525-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_8484.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_8484.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5717930483076403928?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-88327837466381623832009-03-29T00:09:00.000-07:002009-03-29T01:31:59.131-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_8608.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_8608.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8832783746638162383?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-59873104155854428892009-03-28T05:05:00.000-07:002009-03-29T01:30:56.911-07:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_4372.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_4372.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5987310415585442889?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-53014189775232556242009-03-15T00:19:00.000-07:002009-03-29T01:30:18.388-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6503.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_6503.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5301418977523255624?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-61299698549956799002008-12-21T00:02:00.000-08:002008-12-21T20:51:28.656-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2693.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2693.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/13 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6129969854995679900?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-92083501103454752492008-12-19T00:01:00.000-08:002008-12-21T20:51:10.127-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2689.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2689.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/60 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-9208350110345475249?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-4986207406136060212008-12-17T00:00:00.000-08:002008-12-21T20:50:27.141-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2673.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2673.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/80 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-498620740613606021?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-81014372748967478942008-12-15T00:07:00.000-08:002008-12-16T20:56:25.399-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2663.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2663.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/80 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8101437274896747894?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-15944201059087866992008-12-13T00:06:00.000-08:002008-12-16T20:55:56.794-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2659.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2659.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/80 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1594420105908786699?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-62862119940437184972008-12-11T00:01:00.000-08:002008-12-16T20:54:47.886-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2656.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2656.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/80 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6286211994043718497?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-9874125711884503482008-12-09T00:09:00.000-08:002008-12-09T20:47:11.468-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2645.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2645.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/80 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-987412571188450348?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-89665753431101566912008-12-07T00:07:00.000-08:002008-12-07T11:50:38.455-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2630.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2630.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8966575343110156691?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-81309489931817638002008-12-05T00:05:00.000-08:002008-12-05T06:26:16.032-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2624.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2624.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/80 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8130948993181763800?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-58291358709060259112008-12-03T00:05:00.000-08:002008-12-05T06:24:37.172-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2582.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2582.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/40 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5829135870906025911?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-92018015321532781752008-12-01T00:05:00.000-08:002008-12-01T23:40:28.552-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2579.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2579.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/30 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8  <br />ISO: 100  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-9201801532153278175?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-1809217489870475082008-11-30T00:02:00.000-08:002008-12-01T23:40:00.771-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2771_69_70_hdr.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2771_69_70_hdr.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D  <br />Lens Aperture: F/8  <br />ISO: 100  <br />Focal Length: 27mm  <br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-180921748987047508?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-88365162519361869232008-11-28T00:09:00.000-08:002008-12-01T23:39:30.241-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2765_2768_cylindrical.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2765_2768_cylindrical.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D  <br />Shutter Speed: 10 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/8  <br />ISO: 100  <br />Focal Length: 18mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8836516251936186923?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-56839712396398436592008-11-26T00:08:00.000-08:002008-11-27T06:26:22.136-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2419.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2419.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D  <br />Shutter Speed: 1/60 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8 <br />ISO: 800  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5683971239639843659?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-87940396140895569842008-11-24T00:07:00.000-08:002008-11-24T00:07:00.910-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2413.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2413.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D  <br />Shutter Speed: 1/40 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8 <br />ISO: 800  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8794039614089556984?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-53143388504200571462008-11-22T00:05:00.000-08:002008-11-22T00:05:00.662-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2405.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2405.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D  <br />Shutter Speed: 1/30 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/1.8 <br />ISO: 800  <br />Focal Length: 50mm  <br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5314338850420057146?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-66832220916064515372008-11-20T00:22:00.000-08:002008-11-20T00:22:00.268-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2194.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2194.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D  <br />Shutter Speed: 1/125 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/4 <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 70mm  <br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6683222091606451537?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-4689343888905846492008-11-18T00:19:00.000-08:002008-11-18T00:19:00.393-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2185.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_2185.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif  <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D  <br />Shutter Speed: 1/800 sec.  <br />Lens Aperture: F/5.6 <br />ISO: 400  <br />Focal Length: 200mm  <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-468934388890584649?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-74183209395469986282008-11-17T00:12:00.000-08:002008-11-17T00:12:00.864-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1683.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1683.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D <br />Shutter Speed: 10 sec. <br />Lens Aperture: F/8 <br />ISO: 100 <br />Focal Length: 10mm <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-7418320939546998628?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-48391342115906147962008-11-15T00:10:00.000-08:002008-11-15T00:10:01.388-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1682.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1682.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D <br />Shutter Speed: 10 sec. <br />Lens Aperture: F/8 <br />ISO: 100 <br />Focal Length: 10mm <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4839134211590614796?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-25013583316858031982008-11-14T01:04:00.000-08:002008-11-14T01:04:00.349-08:00by Tedric Garrison<br /><br />Hair Lights, Back Lights, and Barn Doors, oh my! Studio Lighting can be very overwhelming when you first start getting into it. Some photographers out there have thousands of dollars of accessories associated with their studio setup. The good news is, you don’t have to be rich to enter into the world of studio portraits. Think about it. How many light sources did God create for earth? If you said "One" meaning the sun; you were almost right. He also created the sky and the ground to "bounce" that light into the shadows. Light that is bounced back is commonly referred to as a "fill light". If there was no fill light on earth; anything not directly lit by the sun, would have NO DETAIL, it would all be totally black. <br /><br />It is astounding how much you can do with one main light and one or two fill lights. For those of you thinking three lights doesn’t sound simple to me, let me clarify. In this article what I am describing is one light and one or two reflective surfaces to help bounce that light or to fill in the shadows. With one light and one or more reflectors, you can make amazing photographs.<br /><br />Having the tools and knowing what to do with those tools are two different things. Today I want to show you what to do with these basic tools.<br /><br />1) Short Light is the type of studio lighting setup, where the face side of the subject which is the farthest from the camera gets the main light. In this type of lighting setup, the side of the face which is toward the camera gets less light then the side facing away form the camera. The effect you get when using this lighting setup is a thin face, this is why it is good to photograph large (or chubby) people with a short light setup. A photo tip worth remembering is: short light helps to visually thin your subject.<br /><br />2) Broad light is just the opposite of Short light. In the Broad Light setup, the side that is getting the most light is the side facing the camera. This setup is less commonly used for portraits as it tends to make people look chubby. In both these cases, you can place a reflector on the opposite side of the light (at about a 45 degree angle) to help fill in the shadow side.<br /><br />3) Split Light sounds more complex than it is. Position your main light on one side of your subject so that it’s exactly 90 degrees to the subject. In other words, you will see a dramatic shadow going right down to the middle of his or her face. If your main light is a flash, you might want to consider a secondary light; not for exposure . . . but just for light placement. We call this small secondary light a modeling light. In some units, they actually have a modeling light built in around the main light, so you can visually see what’s happening. Using the modeling light, make sure the line between light and dark runs directly down the center of your model’s face, right down the tip of the nose. The model should be looking directly at the camera. This is what we call a split light portrait. Another photo tip is this: split light portraits, create dramatic visual results.<br /><br />4) Rembrandt Light is considered an artistic classic. The main light is positioned high and on the side of the face that is away from the camera. Generally the subject is placed at a 45 degree angle to the camera (as opposed to just looking straight on.) This technique produces an illuminated triangle on the cheek closest to the camera. The triangle will illuminate just under the eye and not below the nose. The face should appear illuminated on one side and heavily shadowed on the other. <br /><br />Place your reflector (or white poster board) on the opposite side of the studio light. The reflector should be angled so that it reflects any remaining light in the room to the subject's darken side. The key here is NOT to eliminate the dark shadows, but to add detail within the shadows. The third photo tip to remember: adding subtle detail makes images appear more artistic.<br /><br />5.) Butterfly Light is achieved by positioning the main light directly in front of the subjects face and adjusting the height to create a shadow directly under, and in line with the nose. This style is best suited for subjects with a normal oval face and is considered to be a glamour style of lighting best suited for women. This lighting technique creates hard shadows in the eye sockets and under the chin depending on the size of your main light and distance to your subject. Use a reflector under the main light source to fill in the underside of the face (eye sockets, under nose and under chin areas). Sometimes this is referred to as "over and under lighting".<br /><br />Now the setups given above; can use extra lights, but they don’t have to. Just as you can take an award winning photographs with a $50.00 camera or a $5,000.00 camera, you can also take great shots with a single light source. As we mentioned before, having the tools and knowing what to do with them are two totally different things. <br /><br />It is my firm belief that photographers who learned to master Black and White photography first and then learned Color photography; will ALWAYS have the advantage over those who started with color photography. This is not meant to insult younger photographers. If a cake taste bad, it doesn’t matter what kind of icing you put on it. Learn the basics of good photography first, and then you can add more lights, more lenses, or whatever the case may be. Thus the fourth photo tip to remember is this: start with the basics, master them first. Then go forward.<br /><br />Award winning writer / photographer Tedric Garrison has 30 years experience in photography. As a Graphic Art Major, he has a unique perspective on the Elements of Design and how those elements relate to all aspects of photography. His photo eBook (Your Creative Edge) proves that creativity CAN be taught. Tedric shares his wealth of knowledge with the world, at: Better Photo Tips.com<br /><br />Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-2501358331685803198?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-84713043423578466522008-11-13T00:09:00.000-08:002008-11-13T00:09:00.300-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1681.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1681.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D <br />Shutter Speed: 10 sec. <br />Lens Aperture: F/8 <br />ISO: 100 <br />Focal Length: 10mm <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8471304342357846652?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-684767371431697392008-11-12T01:04:00.000-08:002008-11-12T01:04:00.485-08:00by Jessica Thomson<br /><br />Light rays that are falling on us have three components. They are the ultra violet rays, the visible light we generally see and the infra red rays. An infrared filter blocks all lights except infrared rays to pass through the filter. These filters were initially developed for taking photographs using infrared light. The films used were sensitive to infrared lights. Infrared photography has been extended to digital cameras. These cameras use image sensors which are sensitive to infrared lights.<br />Besides use in infrared photography, these filters are used in many other areas.<br />These filters are being used in the industries. These filters enable to see through objects that are not visible to naked eyes under normal light. Water and other fluids absorb specific wavelengths. By using infrared filters, it can be ascertained whether a container has been filled. By using these filters, we can see through the labels to detect the fluids stored inside or we can detect the presence of any foreign materials.<br />These filters also find application in security and surveillance applications. By using infrared light source (which will not be visible to the naked eye) and using infrared sensitive cameras or binoculars any movement made in the darkness of the night could be easily monitored.<br />Similarly, by using these filters and infrared light source, it would be possible to keep watch on the movement of wild animals in the forest in the night. The hunters could also utilize this facility for game hunting in the night.<br />These filters used along with an infrared light source could enable the parents to keep watch on their children without turning the lights on.<br />It has been seen that using a camera with an infrared filter in the daytime, sometimes we could see through the clothing.<br />For some applications, it may be required to that the filter would reflect infrared light instead of allowing it to pass through. This type of filter has been used in Silver Cloud's Heat Shield display filter windows so that heat of infrared light does not affect in outdoor applications.<br />Digital camera sensors are generally sensitive to infrared lights. This sensitivity could interfere with its functioning while taking photographs under normal lighting. Therefore, to improve the quality of pictures taken by these cameras, they are fitted with infrared filters which block infrared lights. These cameras would not be suitable for taking infrared photography.<br />For taking infrared photography using digital cameras, these blocking filters are removed and infrared filter is fitted in these cameras which allow only infrared light to pass. Special digital cameras are being developed for taking infrared photography to be taken from satellites or for taking photo using infrared radiation (Thermographic camera).<br /><br />For more insights and further information about Optical Filter visit our site http://www.instrumentplastics.com<br /><br />Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-68476737143169739?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-41954805146913947072008-11-11T00:07:00.001-08:002008-11-11T00:07:00.828-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1680.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1680.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D <br />Shutter Speed: 10 sec. <br />Lens Aperture: F/8 <br />ISO: 100 <br />Focal Length: 10mm <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4195480514691394707?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-30500682490073344562008-11-10T01:04:00.001-08:002008-11-10T01:04:00.426-08:00by Andrew Goodall<br /><br />Wildlife photography is immensely rewarding, but also particularly challenging. As a photographer you have to have all the skills of everyday photography, plus you are dealing with a subject that has no interest in having its photo taken.<br /><br />For an experienced photographer, there are so many things one would love to pass on to beginners to help them get started. Good lighting is essential. Timing and composition are subtle arts that come with lots of patience and experience. But what is the one golden rule of wildlife photography that one should learn above all else?<br /><br />It's all in the eyes.<br /><br />Photographing wildlife is not the same as photographing a landscape or an inanimate object. Your wildlife subject has eyes, and our natural tendency as humans is to make eye contact. As a result, if you can capture the eyes effectively in a wildlife photograph, you have achieved the main ingredient of a great image.<br /><br />Take a look at some of the great wildlife photography to be found in print and on the internet. You will notice that very often a picture only shows part of the animal, and perhaps much of what is visible is out of focus. The subject may be half-hidden behind a bush or lost in shadow.<br /><br />Despite all these 'problems' the photos are successful. Who knows, maybe they have won an award or two. How can this be? Because the eyes are captured in a compelling way that creates a bond between the subject and the viewer.<br /><br />What's even more remarkable is that the subject does not have to be looking at the camera for the eyes to have impact on the picture. With our natural instinct to try to make eye contact, we are inclined to look first at the eyes of a subject and to follow its gaze. So if the subject is looking to the left, our eyes will tend to wander in that direction.<br /><br />Imagine the power this can have in a composition. By using the position of the subject and the direction of its gaze, you can actually influence the way your viewer looks at your picture. For example, imagine a scene with a kangaroo and a striking tree in the background. Position yourself so the kangaroo is on the left and the tree is on the right. If you take your shot when the kangaroo is looking to the right (towards the tree), you will have created a composition that brings the two elements of the picture together. People will first notice the kangaroo, then follow its gaze to take a better look at the tree.<br /><br />This is a great method of creating structure in your composition, but it also adds a little bit of pressure on you to get it right.<br /><br />Two simple tips can help you make the most of the impact of the eyes in your wildlife photo. To begin with, photograph your subjects when the light is soft and even, to eliminate harsh shadows across the face of the subject. This is a simple matter of shooting early or late in the day when the sun is low, or on cloudy days when shadows are not a problem.<br /><br />Secondly, make sure the subject is facing toward the centre of the photo. Remember that just as the eyes can lead the viewer into the picture, they can also lead the viewer out of the picture. When your animal subject is on the right, try to catch it facing left (and vice-versa).<br /><br />These are just simple guidelines. As in all nature photography, every rule is made to be broken. You will sometimes find situations where these tips just don't work for your picture. You may even decide to break with convention from time to time, just to create a different kind of impact. However, even when you decide to try something different, never forget the power of the eyes in your wildlife photography. In most cases, it means the difference between a snapshot and something really special.<br /><br />http://www.naturesimage.com.au is the place to find "Photography in Plain English," the top selling ebook for beginners by Andrew Goodall. You can also see a huge range of Andrew's wildlife and landscape photography, and sign up to the free online newsletter.<br /><br />Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3050068249007334456?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-29977998949854152462008-11-09T00:05:00.000-08:002008-11-09T00:05:01.178-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1665.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1665.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D <br />Shutter Speed: 3.2 sec. <br />Lens Aperture: F/8 <br />ISO: 100 <br />Focal Length: 10mm <br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-2997799894985415246?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-608311726095576702008-11-08T01:00:00.000-08:002008-11-08T01:00:00.940-08:00by Roberto Sedycias<br /><br />Photography is one of the most popular hobbies of many people around the world. Almost every individual with a camera creates his own world of pictures, least bothering the types of camera he is using. Most of the digital camera users have little or no idea on the configuration of the gadgets they have. Some people purchase digital cameras without caring to figure out what type of digital camera will best serve their purpose. <br /><br />However, professional photographers know their needs pretty well in this regard. But it is wise for anyone to know the type of digital cameras before investing in one of them. Digital camera has many advanced features that the traditional cameras lack. But if you go through the minute details of each type of digital cameras you will find them differing from each other in their features and functionality.<br /><br />Compact digital camera: <br /><br />Generally, a regular sized digital camera is smaller in size. But if you are opting for a compact digital camera you will find them as portable as to keep them in your pocket or small purse. They are also available with LCD monitors with sensor image stabilization, dust reduction, wireless remote controller and image resolution quality. The LCD monitor shows the view of the picture to be taken and hence, helps capturing perfect images. <br /><br />The image sensor tends to catch dirt and debris. But the dust reduction system removes dirt from it. The image stabilization mode of the digital camera sharpens the image by eliminating camera shake. The portable and lightweight digital camera with multiple features varies in its price depending on its features.<br /><br />Point and Shoot digital camera: <br /><br />Digital cameras of this category do not need a lot of creativity on the part of the user and therefore, are good for any user. It is easy to use and have many controls that don`t need much of your involvement while taking the snaps. The powerful camera has compositional technology which can be wonderfully used not only for photography but also for video taping, paining and some of the other visual media. <br /><br />Though the camera has its limitations like lack of flexibility, you still can capture your memories with great pictures if you are smart to use the compositional technology. It is the best digital camera for the beginners. As any other digital camera they are also small light weight and the picture can be viewed on the screen before taking it.<br /><br />Digital SLR camera: <br /><br />A digital SLR camera is a digital camera with single lens reflex system. It has got a small mirror between the lens and camera films. The technology of this high-end camera creates more image control and focusing for the photographer. Also, this type of digital camera is developed with mega pixels. The number of pixels present is responsible for the clarity of picture.<br /><br />Advanced digital camera: <br /><br />The advanced digital cameras have got some advantages over the basic digital cameras. This type of digital camera is available with fully automatic, manual or semi-automatic control. The astounding digital camera captures amazing images with ease of handling. The extremely simple interface allows the user easily understand its functionality. The advanced LCD screen, megapixels and optical zoom makes the advanced digital camera feasible for professional and personal use.<br /><br />Before taking your digital camera you can go through some reviews that give clear picture of every type of camera, its feature and functionality. Ask some of the digital camera owners about the pros and cons of the models they own. Try out many models of digital cameras before you settle down for the right digital camera for your purpose. Happy Buying!!!<br /><br />This article can be accessed in portuguese from the Article section of page www.polomercantil.com.br/camera-digital.php Roberto Sedycias works as IT consultant for www.PoloMercantil.com.br<br /><br />Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-60831172609557670?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-50936949243558383942008-11-07T00:21:00.000-08:002008-11-07T00:21:00.336-08:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1654.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1654.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a></p><p>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 3.2 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 10mm<br />Exposure Program: Manual<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5093694924355838394?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-81395053456659158102008-11-06T01:00:00.000-08:002008-11-06T01:00:02.112-08:00by Andrew Chan<br /><br />Time of wedding itself is very special. It is time that comes in the life of all human beings. It is the union of the two individual celebrating their love for each other. It is the time when two hearts become one and live together for the entire life. It is a blessed bond, which is not easy to break. Wedding is a declaration of love, beginning of a new life together and giving birth to endless opportunities in new life. Wedding is pinnacle point of dedication and celebration between a man and a woman. The event brings together all family, friends and individuals that have been a part of the bride and groom life.<br /><br />People find themselves dedicating a great amount of time and effort in making this a lifetime event. Many individual components make the unique wedding day. The wedding day is probably the most important time for every married couple. These moments must be captured so they last forever. Since wedding happens only once in a lifetime, the photos must be of top quality and must capture the true feeling of the moment. Photographs should capture all the special moments of wedding. As whatever happens that day will not come again in life. Capturing engagement and wedding rituals is very special, another important thing is bride and groom, their dress up and how they are looking on that day.<br /><br />Wedding photographs leave an everlasting memory in the life and family of all members. Once the wedding is over, one can keep those wonderful memories alive only through wedding photographs. Even after the couple grows old, they can show the photographs to their later generation and could recall all past memories. Sometimes after marriage, couples stay separate due to job or some other responsibility, during that time wedding photographs can be the best companion. <br /><br />Only a perfect wedding photographer with great deal of wedding experience and knowledge of various issues related to professional photography can return the best results. The outcome of his labor and experience together can result best wedding snaps to be cherished for whole life.<br /><br /><br />For More Information Visit :- http://www.1stjournal.com<br /><br />Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8139505345665915810?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-63802988073301094402008-11-05T00:57:00.000-08:002008-11-05T00:57:00.737-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1549.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1549.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/500 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 300mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6380298807330109440?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-88529256077604235392008-11-04T01:04:00.000-08:002008-11-04T01:04:00.710-08:00by Carl Formby<br /><br />Minolta has always been the leader in producing lenses that are one of its own kinds. The minolta camera lenses have now gone beyond the imagination of the crowd. Recently, these people have come up with the exotic special purpose lens, which specializes in producing a transition between the in-focus and out-of-focus areas in the picture. The best feature in these lenses is its ability to reduce the distracting effects from the background without distorting the original image. These lenses also come at an excellent price range and are excellent in optical quality and range for daily use. <br /><br />Moving on from lenses, we digress a little and jump on directly to the security cameras. The latest security system uses the board cameras. These are mini cameras that have lenses mounted on circuit boards. The small size of these cameras makes them simply apt for use in the security system applications. Sometimes they also use the pin hole lenses that are available in two categories - flat and conical lenses. <br /><br />The conical lens is used when the security system camera is installed on the ceiling tiles and the flat lens is used when the security camera system uses a thin material such as clothing. Some of these board cameras also use the board lenses for better picture quality. Most of the board cameras operate with an AC adapter or at times using a battery for power supply. However, most of the brand manufacturers suggest the use of good quality adapters for your cameras.<br /><br />Talking of camera systems, we just cannot afford to forget the canon camera systems. It is one of the leading producers of the most complete single lens reflex camera system in the world. They give you guaranteed products that can take you to a much higher level of photography. They use some exclusive technologies that are unmatched by any other camera manufacturer in the world. <br /><br />Sometimes these cameras use the teleconverters for the conversion or rather extension of the focal lengths. One of the popular names in this field is the bower that boasts not only of teleconverters but are also leading manufactures of wide angle lenses. The bower lenses come with a high resolution, ultra wide angle and even macro fittings attached. Another important camera system is the telescopic camera system that is used for security as well as some industrial inspections. This system features a powerful monochrome camera and an illuminator mounted on a telescopic pole. <br /><br />With all these varieties of cameras available, people generally do not prefer fixed lens cameras. Thus, manufacturers have come up with a better solution in the form of the varifocal lenses. As the name suggests, these lenses can be adjusted even after the purchase of the camera. In simple words, these lenses provide the facility of changing the focal length and consequently the magnification of the image. <br /><br />There is one more historical name that needs to be added to the list and that is the cosina cameras and camera lenses. This company is also accredited with world's first all-push-button SLR cameras. Then, there is a latest product in the market by the name of Nikon's d2h camera, which is receiving rave reviews. It is much better in looks and performance than its predecessors D1H and D1. <br /><br />Even after all these discussions, some of us are still not aware of many of the terminologies used in the field of camera and lenses. One good example is the 3x, which denotes the ratio of the camera's longest focal length to the shortest focal length. It, by no ways, means that two 3x cameras will have the same actual magnification.<br /><br />Carl formby owns and operates http://www.cameralensprice.com, dedicated to the Yashica Camera Lens and Hasselblad Camera Lens<br /><br />Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8852925607760423539?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-40689665834185781972008-11-03T12:01:00.000-08:002008-11-03T12:01:00.629-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1554.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1554.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/320 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 168mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4068966583418578197?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-64213985405473395642008-11-02T01:00:00.000-07:002008-11-02T01:00:01.177-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Panoramic digital photos cover a wide angle of view. In its extreme a panoramic photo can cover 360 degrees of view. Such panoramic photos are for example taken from a sky scraper to convey the view it provides. Most new digital cameras provide a panoramic mode that supports such photography. <br /><br />There is no formal or definitive definition of what a panoramic photo is. It is common practice to define panoramic photos as such that cover a wide angle of view. How wide? A common definition is "wider than our eyes can see" – or in other worlds – provide an artificial view that otherwise we could not have gotten by just looking at the scene (without moving our head left and right or up and down of course). Panoramic digital photos can be taken in a single shot using special panoramic wide angle lenses. This technique is limited of course as for example a 360 degree panoramic photo can not be taken this way. <br /><br />Another way in which panoramic photos are created is in segments – a few photos are taken in series and are later attached to each other to create one big panoramic photo. The process of attaching the photos together is fast and easy thanks to modern digital photo processing software (as long as you're following some guidelines when taking the photos). Panoramic photos are not limited to capturing landscape or wide angle view. They can be very useful when capturing objects that are just too big to be captured from where you stand. For example if you are standing too close to a tall tower and can not retreat to a farther position – using panoramic photography will enable you to capture the complete tower (in 2 or more shots).<br /><br />Most digital cameras support a special panoramic mode. In this mode the camera optimizes its optical settings for panoramic wide angle photography. But more than just setting the optical parameters the camera also provides tools that allow you to more easily take the photos series and later on stitch them together. When put in panoramic mode the camera will first let you choose if you plan to take a horizontal panoramic photo (i.e. taking photos from left to right or right to left while keeping the vertical position fixed) or to take a vertical panoramic photo (i.e. taking the photos from bottom to top or top to bottom while keeping the horizontal position fixed). You can also choose a combination. <br /><br />After you choose the panoramic mode – the camera will let you start taking the photos. On its LCD screen you would always see the previous photo you took and the new photo you are taking. This allows you to easily compose each photo in a way that it complements the previous one. You would also want to make sure the photo overlaps a bit with the previous photo – this allows for easier photo stitching later on. The camera also names the digital photos files in a special format that further helps stitching.<br /><br />Photo stitching can be easily done on a computer at home. Many digital cameras come with a photo stitching software. If your digital camera did not come with one you can find either free or low priced commercial software that can stitch single photos. Basically what the photo stitching software does is: based on the photo file names it orders the photos in their right order. Then it identifies the overlapping areas in each pair of photos and places the photos in a way that these overlapping areas match (this is why having a bit of overlap is important). The final step is to attach all those pairs of files and create a single panoramic digital photo.<br /><br />It is a good practice to use a tripod when taking panoramic photos. A tripod will help you maintaining either a fixed horizontal or a fixed vertical position. Also it is good practice to keep the optical settings fixed between shots and to make sure that the lighting stays the same. As always practice makes perfect – go and experiment with panoramic photography and master your digital camera panoramic mode. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Find more on photo printing and photography is on printrates.com - a place about digital photo printing Ziv Haparnas is an expert in technology. This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Mr. Haparnas writes about technology and digital photography.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6421398540547339564?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-59261761177922559362008-11-01T12:01:00.000-07:002008-11-01T12:01:00.607-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1653-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1653-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/250 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 20mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5926176117792255936?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-17283975605891651052008-10-31T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-31T01:40:00.845-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Lightning photos are very dramatic. The contrast between the night darkness and the lightning brightness results in very powerful photos. In this article we will provide you with a few tips and guidelines for successfully taking lightning photos.<br /><br />The first thing to do when preparing for lightning photography is to set the camera to manual mode. Since all the preparations are done in a dark environment the camera can not automatically set the right focus, exposure and aperture. <br /><br />Set the focus to manual and focus the camera on infinity. This is the right setting since lightning photography is done from long distance. Set the exposure to anywhere between a few seconds to a few minutes. The right exposure depends on the type of lightning – some lightning last a friction of a second while others can last a few seconds – and the distance from the lightning storm. Usually you would guess what the right exposure is and after the first lightning shot you would have to review the photo and correct the exposure as needed. <br /><br />Remember to turn the flash unit off. Flash is not needed in lightning photography but if left in automatic mode the camera might fire it anyway due to the dark scene. The aperture should be set to a small value since lightning are very bright and with a small aperture they will still be more than visible in the photo.<br /><br />Now that the camera is set you will need to choose the right scene for the photo – this is also referred to as framing the photo. To make lightning photos more interesting try to find contrast or objects that will be interesting when lit or stroked by lightning. Such objects could be trees, city sky line, roads or antenna towers. After your first lightning shot you should review the photo and make any needed corrections to the photo frame.<br /><br />You can also play with other settings of the camera to achieve different effects. For example you can take photos with different white balance settings to achieve different color temperatures. <br /><br />Remember that it can take a very long time to take one good lightning photo. Since there is no advanced notice as to when lightning strikes you will need to take photos continuously as the lightning storm is active. Be patient and make sure you are comfortable. Keep yourself dry have plenty of food and coffee and prepare for a shooting session that can last hours. After doing all the preparations and framing your photo the only thing to do is wait. Some luck can always be of help in getting this one perfect lightning photo.<br /><br />And last but not least make sure that you are safe. Lightning can be dangerous. Make sure that you are not too close or in the heart of the storm. Avoid having metal objects around you or tall sharp objects. Remember that lightning strikes the highest object that can conduct its electrical current to the ground. <br /><br />In conclusion taking good lightning photos is not hard. It takes a lot of patience some know-how of camera settings and regardless of your photography level it also takes a lot of luck. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology issues. More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about photo printing This article can be published and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas is a technology veteran.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1728397560589165105?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-18589338995538486412008-10-30T00:57:00.000-07:002008-10-30T00:57:00.904-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1563.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1563.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/640 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 300mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1858933899553848641?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-39138832063491146332008-10-29T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-29T01:40:00.276-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Time lapse photography is a technique that allows to quickly and visually convey processes that take a long time in real life. For example time lapse photography can shrink to 10 seconds the complete process of building a new bridge. Although usually used in videos time lapse can also be used in still digital photography.<br /><br />The idea behind time lapse is simple. You want to capture a change that usually takes a long time in real life. In order to accomplish that you take photos either every fixed period of time or every time there is some change in the real life process. For example you can take a photo once a week to document the building of a new bridge, or you can take a photo every time a new floor is built in a new skyscraper. When viewing these photos in sequence the feeling of the actual real life process and its magnitude is very effectively conveyed.<br /><br />Time lapse photography is mostly known for such scenarios as the process of building bridges and buildings or the process of flowers growing. There are however other usages to time lapse photography that are more relevant to the amateur home photographer. Here are some examples:<br /><br />^Moving apartments: You can document your moving to a new apartment using time lapse techniques. In this scenario it is best to take photos based on events and not every fixed period of time. For example start with a photo of the apartment you are moving from. Then as you start packing take a photo every time you pack a box. When the movers show up take photos as furniture are moved away from your apartment. Do the reverse in the new apartment. Take a photo of it being empty. Then start taking photos as furniture move in and finally take photos as each single box is opened and put in its new place. Taking the time to take such photos can be a great way to capture memories for years to come.<br /><br /><br />^Renovating your house: Similar to moving, renovation can be documented using time lapse techniques. Take photos as significant changes are made to your house. Take the first photo before any work is done. Then continue taking photos as renovation progresses, for example when a wall is taken down. Take the last photo when the renovation is completed and the house is ready.<br /><br /><br />^People and kids: You can use time lapse techniques to document how your kids are growing up or other changes in people you care about. One way to accomplish that is by taking a photo of your kids every 6 months or a year. It is a good idea to take the photos in the same place and in the same position as it will intensify the effect of the changes happened to them over that period of time.<br /><br /><br />^Your garden: If you are working on your garden, maybe planted a tree or some special flowers you can use time lapse techniques to document the progress of your work. Take a photo every fixed period of time, depending on the time it takes for the tree or plant to grow this can be a few days or a few weeks.<br /><br /><br />Professional photographers sometimes use special equipment that can automatically take photos every certain period of time. For most amateur usages manually taking the photos is good enough. Some things to care about when taking time lapse photos: try to take photos in the same time of the day and with the same lighting – this will intensify the effect as the difference between the photos will be mostly the changes that you care about and not other external factors like lighting that can draw unwanted attention. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Ziv Haparnas is a veteran technologist. Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology and science issues. This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about Philips and digital photo printing<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3913883206349114633?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-57043589171850166682008-10-28T11:56:00.000-07:002008-10-28T11:56:00.857-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1580_82.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1580_82.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/500 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 10mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5704358917185016668?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-12980328541603123522008-10-27T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-27T01:40:00.877-07:00by Joseph Gill<br /><br />The summer of 1826 was a turning point in recorded human history. After ten years of failed experimentation a man by the name of Joseph Nicephore Niépce created the first permanent surviving photograph. The first surviving photograph depicted was the view from Niépce's workshop at his estate in Gras, France. Though hard to decipher it contains several buildings a tree and a barn. Although poor in quality compared to even the earliest photographs its development was the foundation of what we know of as photography today.<br /><br />Nicephore Niépce was born on March 7th 1765 to a wealthy family suspected of having royalist sympathies. His mother was the daughter of a well renown lawyer and his father the kings councilor. In his youth Niépce showed an incredible aptitude for the invention process but was preparing for a career in the church. Before the start of the French Revolution He left the church to become an officer in the army. Due to his royalist sympathies and his families past he left the military during the first period of the revolution. When Napoleon came to power He returned to the army. After serving in the Sardinian and Italian military campaigns. Shortly thereafter he retired from the army for health related reasons. After a few years of being a statesmen he returned home and dedicated his time to scientific experimentation and invention.<br /><br />It was this aspect of Niépce's life that would forever change the way humanity saw the world and our history. In 1822 he created the first permanent image using a camera obscura, but it was in 1826 when he created the image that exists even today. To do this he used bitumen cutback attenuated in animal oil. He deposited this solution onto a plate made of glass, copper and tin-lead alloy and exposed it for several hours. As odd as it sounds the first equivalent photo paper was actually asphalt. Once the image on the plate became visible Niépce used an acid to process the picture. This acid dissolved the coating and left the exposed lines to show through. Once this process was completed an engraver used the exposed lines to chisel out the plate used for copying the image. With that heliography "of the Sun" was invented. This first image took 8 hours to expose and due to the movement of sun the building in the photograph had light coming from both directions. Though photographically speaking this first image is of poor quality it was the advent of modern photography. <br /><br />The ability to transfer an image using light was the gift that was given to us. In the almost 200 years since that first photo was taken photography has become a mainstay in our everyday lives. Every newspaper you read, every family photograph you cherish, every piece of modern history transferred using nothing but light was founded on the inventive nature of humanity. Niépce is the embodiment of that creativity and though not well known to the masses he has affected our lives in ways that we should be eternally grateful for. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />If you would like more information about professional photo framing please visit: www.sportsframer.com<br /><br />Joseph Gill<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1298032854160312352?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-82282563433772182762008-10-26T00:09:00.000-07:002008-10-26T00:09:00.498-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1606.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1606.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/400 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 20mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8228256343377218276?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-49527842958978998382008-10-25T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-25T01:40:00.945-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />There is no debate that digital cameras are going to take over the photography market and with time we will see less and less film cameras sold and used. It is beneficial to take a moment and try to list the advantages of digital cameras and digital photos and put some order in why everybody likes them so much. In this article you will find that list.<br /><br />Digital photos and digital cameras have many advantages and allow many new usages that were not possible with film. Here are a few:<br /><br />Low photo cost:<br />Photos taken with a digital camera literally cost nothing. The photos are kept in erasable memory and thus can always be discarded at no cost. Viewing the photos is immediate and does not cost anything (there is no film development cost). Also the photos you would like to keep can be copied to digital media such as a computer's hard disk. With storage prices going down the cost of saving a photo on disk is practically zero. <br /><br />The capacity:<br />With ever growing storage capacities digital cameras today can hold hundreds and sometimes thousands of photos on a single media. You can always have a few more in your pocket and changing is very fast. The result is that a digital camera has practically infinite capacity. You can shoot as many photos as you want and at the end of the day just dump them on your computer's disk. There is no time lost changing film and there is no photo opportunities lost due to lack of film or reserving film for later. <br /><br />The feedback:<br />One of the great advantages of digital cameras is instant feedback. Almost all digital cameras include a small LCD screen. Once a photo is shot you can go back and watch it on that screen. The ability to see how the photo looks like results in better photos. If the photo is not good you can take another one. Being able to see the photos on the spot results in an educated decision how to fix a photo or how to compose it better. It takes a lot of the guessing away from photography. <br /><br />New shooting angles:<br />With digital cameras you can take photos without your eye glued to the viewfinder. Overhead shots where you raise the camera over your head are much easier since you can still see what the camera is shooting by just looking up at its LCD screen. You are not limited anymore to angles where you can look through the viewfinder; you can shoot from any angle that the LCD is visible from. You can always shoot blindly like photographers used to do with film cameras.<br /><br />Correcting photos:<br />With digital cameras photos can be corrected using photo editing software. Some correction abilities are built-in the cameras but many more are available as software packages for your PC. Such corrections include red eye removal, contrast enhancements and more.<br /><br />Changing conditions:<br />With digital cameras the settings of the sensor can be changed instantly for each photo taken. With a click of a button the camera can be put in an indoor or outdoor mode, low light, night photography etc. Some cameras will automatically sense the scenario and set the sensor mode accordingly. This is literally like changing a roll of film to the optimized one for every photo you shoot: the best ISO, color features and more.<br /><br />The myth of quality:<br />While it is true that film photography has its advantages the claim for superior quality is no longer true. As digital camera evolved the quality of high end digital SLR cameras is superb and in many ways even better than film. When considering quality you should also consider the quality in terms of composition and the scenario caught in the photo. With digital cameras' high capacity, zero photo cost and instant adaptability to changing conditions photographers can produce better compositions and experiment more to get the best photo possible.<br /><br />Longevity:<br />Digital photos never lose their quality. A digital photo will be identical today and in 500 years. As long as you refresh the digital media every now and then and back it up your photos will literally last forever with no quality degradation. Digital photos do not turn yellow, they do not fold or get torn. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Find more on photo printing and photography is on printrates.com - a place about digital photo print service This article can be published only if the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas is an expert technology writer. Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology issues.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4952784295897899838?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-20894075308689351852008-10-24T00:55:00.000-07:002008-10-24T00:55:00.327-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1626_30.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1626_30.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/640 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 10mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-2089407530868935185?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-3536683952671948492008-10-23T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-23T01:40:00.747-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />There are many reasons why you would like to photograph your home. No matter what the reason is there are a few simple tips you can follow in order to get better quality home photos that look like photos taken by professional photographers. This article lists few such tips.<br /><br />The most common reason for taking photos of your home is when planning to sell it. With the proliferation of online real estate web sites having high quality photos of your home can help attracting potential buyers. In addition to selling your home there are many other reasons to photograph it. Examples of such reasons are when moving to a new home you can take photos as a memory for how the home looked like when you moved in. Another reason is for sending your home photos to your friends and family. Yet another reason to take photos of your home is to compare the condition of the home before and after doing some renovation work on it.<br /><br />Regardless of why you are taking photos of your home you can improve those photos by simply following a few easy tips. The result will be better quality and more impressive photos of your home that look like photos taken by professional photographers. Here are a number of such tips:<br /><br />^Lighting: Follow outdoor good photography lighting rules. Avoid taking photos of your home on a very bright day. Bright days result in photos that look overexposed. Bright days also result in photos that include more shadows and are less detailed. It is better to take photos of your home during early morning hours, late afternoon hours or when there is overcast.<br /><br /><br />^Composition: Homes are big objects and sometimes photographers tend to fill the photo with just the home. It is better to include other objects in your home photo in addition to the home itself. For example you can have a tree in the photo or the walkway to your home entrance. These objects will help the viewer visualize the size of your home and put it in some perspective.<br /><br /><br />^Photo angle: Your home photo will look more impressive if taken from a lower angle than usual. To help you find the perfect angle for your home photo simply take a few photos from different angles. Take the photos while you are standing, sitting or even lying on the floor. Later on you can choose the photo that looks the best.<br /><br /><br />^Focus on unique details: Most homes have some unique details. Such details can include for example special art work, curves, arches or other architectural elements. Take extra zoom photos of such details to emphasize their value to the viewer.<br /><br /><br />Do not forget the interior: Take photographs of the home interior too. When photographing the home interior avoid using flash as it distorts the natural colors and make photos look colder. Use a tripod and a longer exposure time if needed. If you must use flash (for example when shooting in a basement) use an external flash unit and point it to the ceiling to create a bounce flash effect. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about science and technology. Ziv Haparnas is a technology veteran. More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about digital photo printing This article can be published only if the resource box including the backlink is included.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-353668395267194849?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-83500438037065293442008-10-22T00:55:00.000-07:002008-10-22T00:55:00.486-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1652.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1652.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/250 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 20mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8350043803706529344?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-2462008784638574622008-10-21T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-21T01:40:00.727-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Roberto Sedycias has a bachelor degree in Business Administration and over 20 years experience in systems analysis and computer programmer. Currently working as IT consultant/chief software engineer for www.polomercantil.com.br.Macro photography is underused by many amateur photographers. Professional photographer use macro photography to take extremely high quality macro photos that impress their viewers. Here are some facts about such macro digital photos.<br /><br />We have all seen macro digital photos even if some of us did not realize that they were such. The two most common macro digital photos objects are flowers and insects. But macro photography is not limited to these objects. Creative photographers take macro photos of objects that you would never think of – and create astonishing digital photos. For example taking a macro photo of a simple screw that is half way screwed in a piece of wood can be an amazing digital photo if taken using the right techniques of lighting and macro photography.<br /><br />So what is macro photography? There are many definitions that can be used. The most intuitive one is simple: digital photos that are taken from very close to the objects. Another definition is digital photos that present objects in real life sizes when printed on a 4X6 paper. Yet another definition extends this to a real life size (1:1 ratio) or better (i.e. bigger than in real life). <br /><br />Professional photographers use special equipment that was designed specifically for macro photography. Special lenses, lens tube extenders, flash units such as ring flashes and more are used. There is no doubt that such equipment can help specially in scenes that are hard to photograph. But even the cheapest digital pocket camera is capable of pretty good macro photography if only used right by the photographer.<br /><br />Practically all digital cameras can be put in a "macro mode". Usually this mode is illustrated as a "flower icon" (probably because flowers are the most common object for macro photography). When you put the camera in a macro mode – the camera optimizes its settings for the best macro digital photo. If your camera allows manual control of some of its settings (like aperture and focus) you can improve the quality of the photos further more.<br /><br />In macro mode the digital camera will set a wider aperture in order to achieve a narrower depth of field. This helps create a macro photo that is focused on a very close item with its background blurry. The camera will also optimize its focusing algorithms to focusing on a very close object. In fact in macro mode it will be hard to make the camera focus on objects in normal or infinite distances. <br /><br />Some cameras also set the flash intensity to lower since the object is close less flash light energy is needed to light up the scene. Macro photography lighting is a complicated issue due to the close proximity of the object to the lens. A right angle, source and intensity of the flash are hard to achieve. For that reason it is always better to take macro digital photos in a highly lit environment like in daylight. <br /><br />In conclusion – like most other photography techniques it is important to use macro photography in the right scenarios. It also takes a lot of practice to achieve high quality macro digital photos. For example if you want to get a macro photo of a bee on a flower – you need to learn how to lock the camera focus – press the shutter button half way while all the settings are set and wait for that bee to show up. Also take as many photos as you can so hopefully one of them will be the perfect one you were aiming at. Go out and start taking macro photos to practice your skills. It is a good idea not to limit yourself to flowers and insects, anything can be a good object, a nail, a screw or a piece of candy. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Ziv Haparnas is a technology expoert. More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about photo printing This article can be published and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-246200878463857462?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-68137733237934429112008-10-20T00:54:00.000-07:002008-10-20T00:54:00.884-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1658.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1658.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/400 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 20mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6813773323793442911?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-32537722225804460512008-10-19T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-19T01:40:01.100-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Digital cameras are powered by batteries and are limited in the number of digital photos that can be taken between either replacing or recharging the batteries. If you are planning for a long digital photo shooting session or are traveling learning some habits that can save on power will help you conserve energy and squeeze more digital photos from your batteries.<br /><br />Digital cameras have many features and options. Some features consume more energy than others. Some of the greatest features are power hungry. Learning which those power hungry features are and using them with caution can help you get more digital photos from your camera battery.<br /><br />Digital camera LCD screen:<br />The digital camera LCD screen is one of the biggest energy consumers. Digital cameras provide viewing of digital photos on a small LCD screen. You can also shoot digital photos using the LCD instead of the viewfinder. An LCD screen consumes a lot of energy. This is the reason why all digital cameras turn off the LCD screen after a certain amount of no usage time. In order to conserve energy try the following: Turn off the LCD and use the viewfinder whenever possible. Only use the LCD when you must for example when taking an overhead digital photo when the optical viewfinder is not usable. Minimize digital photo viewing. When you view photos on the LCD you are wasting energy. Only use the LCD to view photos when you need to do so for the benefit of the next digital photos shooting � for example to check if a composition was right or if the lighting was good. <br /><br />Digital camera mechanical motors:<br />The motors that move the mechanical components of the digital camera such as the lenses when focusing or zooming are also a big power consumer. Motors consume a lot of energy when moving the digital camera optical components. In order to minimize the motors movement try the following: Do not use continuous focus when not necessary: The motors that move the optical components in order to focus consume energy. You can not avoid focusing but you can avoid focusing that is not necessary. For moving objects such as in sport events continuous focus is used so your can stay focused on the object until you are ready to take the photo. In those cases as long as you press the shutter button half way down the camera will continue to focusing on the object. To save energy minimize that time to the minimum necessary. <br /><br />Digital camera flash:<br />The digital camera flash unit is also a big power consumer. Shooting photos using the flash consumes more energy than shooting photos without flash. You can not avoid flash photography when it is needed but in many cases you will find yourself shooting digital photos in situations where the flash is not needed but it is fired because it was left in automatic mode and the camera fired it for no reason. When possible set the flash to manual mode and control its usage.<br /><br />False shutter button usage: <br />Every time you press the shutter button half way down and do not take a photo you waste energy. When pressing the shutter button half way down the camera goes through a series of processes getting ready to shoot a digital photo. It focuses the lenses it wakes up electronic components and gets the flash ready if needed. Avoid pressing the shutter half way down when you do not plan to shoot a photo.<br /><br />In conclusion until there is a breakthrough in battery technology you will have to keep in mind power consumption when going on long shooting sessions without being able to change or recharge the batteries. Fortunately you can follow the few simple usage tips given in this article to significantly extend your digital camera battery life. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about photo printing This article can be published only if the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas writes about science and technology. Ziv Haparnas is a technology expert.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3253772222580446051?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-45755567645371687342008-10-18T00:45:00.000-07:002008-10-18T00:45:00.340-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1589.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1589.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/400 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 13mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4575556764537168734?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-31703525957851929562008-10-17T01:00:00.000-07:002008-10-17T01:00:00.751-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Depth of field is defined as the range in which the photo is in focus. Achieving a specific depth of field is a useful photography technique used for example to achieve a blurry background effect. Film and digital cameras have different optical attributes as a result of using different sensor sizes. For that reason depth of field is also different in film and digital cameras.<br /><br />Before you can understand the difference between film and digital cameras when it comes to depth of field, it is important to understand what depth of field is and how it can be set by the photographer. Depth of field (also known as DOF for short) is defined as the range in which the photo is in focus. For example: an infinite depth of field means that the photo will be in focus from a certain distance from the camera and up to infinity. Another example: when taking a blurry photo the goal is to set the depth of field just around the object, which results in the object being in focus while the background behind it is not.<br /><br />The depth of field is influenced by the optical parameters of the camera and the specific scene. The main parameters that influence the depth of field are: <br /><br />The distance of the object from the camera influences the possible depth of field settings. For example shooting an object that is very close to the camera will result in a smaller depth of field. On the other an extreme case when the object is in practical infinite distance from the camera will result in the camera focused on infinity and the depth of field being infinite too.<br /><br />The aperture: The depth of field increases as the f number increases. The wider the aperture (f number decreases) the smaller the depth of field and vice versa: the narrower the aperture (f number increases) the greater the depth of field. <br /><br />The focal length of the lens: The depth of field grows as the focal length gets shorter. For example if you use normal lenses at somewhere around 50mm your depth of field will be much greater than if you use zoom lenses at 200mm. With a very long focal length the depth of field can be extremely small. <br /><br />One of the main differences between film and digital cameras is the sensor used to capture the photo. Film cameras use a film sensitive to light that is placed behind the lens. When a photo is taken the shutter opens for a predetermined period of time and light hits the film. The result is a photo "printed" on the film. Digital cameras on the other hand use a fixed electronic sensor (also known as CCD) that is situated behind the lens. The sensor is built from tiny light sensitive sensors each representing a pixel. When the shutter opens light hits the sensor and each pixel gets its "value". Put together all the pixels comprise one digital photo. <br /><br />A normal single frame of film size was standardized at 35mm. Digital cameras on the other hand use smaller sensors. One of the reasons why digital sensors are smaller is cost – manufacturing a large electronic sensor is costly (for reasons such as yield and other specific process limitations). The depth of field changes with the sensor size, the smaller the sensor the higher the depth of field. In fact low end pocket cameras use small sensors that together with their other optical limitations result in depth of field that is practically infinite. Because photographers used to measure everything based on 35mm film – many digital cameras still quote "35mm equivalent" measurement. There are a few high end SLR digital cameras that use 35mm sensors thus providing the same optical characteristics as the old film cameras. These are still expensive and considered high end professional cameras. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Ziv Haparnas writes about practical technology and science issues. Information about photography and photo prints is on printrates.com - your home for Philips and digital photo printing This article can be published only if the resource box including the backlink is included.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3170352595785192956?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-42148711350195586012008-10-16T00:02:00.000-07:002008-10-16T00:02:00.856-07:00<p></p><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1605.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1605.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/400 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 20mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4214871135019558601?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-29533347685446339102008-10-15T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-15T01:40:00.187-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Professional photographers take a large number of photos. They know that by doing so they will most likely find that perfect one they were aiming for. Digital cameras make such a technique available to all of us.<br /><br />It should be pretty intuitive that the more photos you take the more likely you are to take that perfect one – the perfect angle, lighting and composition. During the film camera era it was an expensive proposition that was used by professionals only. Digital cameras however make it affordable and reachable to all of us.<br /><br />Forget the slogan "save on film". Photos taken with film cameras are expensive. Each photo consumes a frame in a roll of film. Film rolls capacity is relatively low usually 24 or 36 photos. Every photo also needs to be developed and printed. For these reasons when using film cameras we got used to saving film. You only take a photo when the moment is right and you are pretty sure that the results will be good. There is not much room for mistakes and experiments. On the other hand photos taken with digital cameras cost literally nothing. They are stored on erasable memory and thus can always be discarded at no cost. Moreover the photos can be viewed on digital screens and archived on digital media. When taking photos the digital camera uses digital memory to store the photos. Memory prices get lower and lower and capacity higher – it is very common today for digital cameras to have enough storage space for hundreds or even thousands of photos. <br /><br />You should forget the habit of saving film when using digital cameras. It is still a good idea to follow good photography rules for composition and lighting but you should be free to take as many photos as you like, experiment with different settings and scenes and don't think twice before taking a photo. It is better to take one extra photo and delete it later on rather than regret not taking it. You will be surprised of the great quality of some of the photos that you thought would not be that good and that if using a film camera you would have never taken. And you will be surprised finding new angles and compositions that otherwise you would have never tried.<br /><br />Digital cameras allow you to experiment with new angles and to take photos that were very hard to take with film cameras. For example taking overhead photos in an event or taking a photo from a floor angle were hard or even impossible for amateur photographers with limited resources. It is almost impossible to look through the viewfinder in such scenarios and check the composition. Moreover many times you do not have much time to take the photo before the opportunity is gone. With digital cameras you can easily take such photos. Just aim the camera and press the shutter. Move the camera a bit to the left or to the right, up and down and take more photos in different angles and zooms. Later on you can go over and choose a few photos that are good. Most of the photos will be bad – wrong angle, bad composition, objects not in the frame. These photos can be simply deleted at no additional cost. There was no harm in taking them and there was great value in finding the one good photo among all those bad ones.<br /><br />In conclusion digital cameras are not just a digital replacement of old film cameras. They provide new features and new capabilities that can change the way you take photos. One of those is the ability to take a large number of photos. Take advantage of the high photo capacity and the practically free price tag of taking photos. You should always follow good composition and photography rules but also remember to experiment with new settings and angles. Take many photos and then choose the ones that you like the best. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology and science issues. You can find more information on digital photo printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to Canon and photo printing Ziv Haparnas is a technology expert.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-2953334768544633910?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-24866735857200793792008-10-14T00:00:00.000-07:002008-10-14T00:00:00.078-07:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1623.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1623.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/320 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 20mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-2486673585720079379?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-31917145001312973622008-10-13T01:40:00.000-07:002008-10-13T01:40:00.486-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Digital photography revolutionized the way in which we take, view and share photos and also the way in which we print them. Many digital photos never get printed but there are still many of us who prefer tangible paper prints. Photos can be printed using a professional service (in-store or online) or at home. In this article we will give you tips for getting quality prints at home.<br /><br />A few years ago getting high quality prints at home was an expensive task that was only suitable for semi-professionals who could afford it and who had the know-how. Today low cost printers can generate amazing quality prints and sophisticated software can do most of the processing work behind the scenes. The result is that even amateur photographers can generate very high quality prints by pressing a single Print button.<br /><br />There are a few simple tips to follow that can help in getting higher quality prints:<br /><br />Edit your photos: make sure that you print exactly the photo that you want printed. Using simple photo editing tools (such as Photoshop or even Windows built-in Paint application) you can crop a photo to include just the area you are interested in or crop out parts which you do not want in the print. For example you took a photo of a group of friends but on the left corner of the photo there is a bystander that just happened to be there. You can crop the photo to include only your friends and thus effectively eliminate the unwanted object from the print.<br /><br />When cropping photos always remember aspect-ratio – depending on the paper and the printer you're using sometimes you're limited to a certain photo size. For example if you print on a special 4X6 photo paper any source photo that is not in a 4X6 aspect ratio will have to be either stretched, cropped or parts of the print will be left blank. Make sure that you crop your photo to fit a specific aspect ratio if you're printing on a specific aspect-ratio paper.<br /><br />More photo processing can be done in order to enhance your prints. It can include red-eye removal (many software packages will do it for you automatically) contrast enhancement and more. For example if a portion of the photo that is important to you is a bit dark – you can "stretch" the color palette in a way that this section will look more lit and detailed. This will usually be on the expense of "overexposing" other portions of the photo that you care less about.<br /><br />Always remember photo resolution: Every photo is built out of pixels. The more pixels in a photo the higher the photo resolution is. We will not get into details here about the correlation between mega pixels and print quality but a general rule of thumb is that to get good print quality you need 300 pixels per inch or more. This means for example that the biggest paper size a 2 mega pixels photo can be printed on is 4X6 while an 8 mega pixels photo can be printed on an 8X10.<br /><br />Pick the right printer and paper: there are many different printing each with its advantages and disadvantages. They range in quality and cost. To get the best print quality you should use photo paper in conjunction with a printer that supports such paper. Photo paper and photo printers are more expensive than document oriented A4 Inkjet printers. Choose the printer by evaluating how many prints you will make and how important quality is to you. If you print occasionally for fun an Inkjet printer with normal or photo paper is probably good enough for you. If you print a lot and quality is very important photo paper with a photo printer is the way to go. As a rule of thumb glossy photo paper provides the best quality for color photo prints while matte photo paper provides the best quality for black and white prints.<br /><br />Printer ink and maintenance: printers need to be setup and maintained. It is extremely important to follow the instructions and to use compatible ink cartridges. High quality compatible ink can make the difference between low and high quality prints. It is usually recommended to buy ink from the same brand as the printer. Some calibration is usually needed when replacing ink and sometimes every few months of use. Follow the instructions for such procedures carefully as a calibrated printer results in much better quality prints than a printer that is not aligned and is poorly maintained.<br /><br />In conclusion it is very easy to print your photos at home. Just buying a mid-range printer and hitting the "Print" button in your photo viewing software will probably result in good prints that are satisfactory for most consumers. Following some simple tips can enhance those prints to professional quality. As technology advances and prices go down experimenting at home with various photo processing tools, paper sizes, paper types and inks becomes affordable and is probably the best way to find what combination yields the best print quality for you. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology issues. Ziv Haparnas is a veteran technologist. This article can be published as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about digital prints<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3191714500131297362?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-88797188803735870212008-10-12T00:51:00.001-07:002008-10-12T00:51:00.132-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1499.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1499.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/50 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/5.6<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 55mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8879718880373587021?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-76149925925217706282008-10-11T01:00:00.000-07:002008-10-11T01:00:00.332-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Still photography freezes a scene. A photo is still in nature but sometimes you would like to convey a feeling of motion to the viewer. For example when taking a photo of a moving car or a runner. There are techniques that can help you achieve that - here is how.<br /><br />You have probably experienced shooting blurry photos usually as a result of wrong camera settings or the object moving while you were taking the photo. Such blurriness is not something you would like to see in a photo but if controlled some blurriness can actually be used to capture and convey the feeling of motion in a still photo.<br /><br />Shutter speed is what determines if a photo is frozen or blurry. The faster the shutter the more frozen the photo is. The slower the shutter the more motion is captured in the photo in the form of blurriness. Open the shutter for too long and the photo will be completely blurred.<br /><br />There are two ways to capture motion: to blur the moving object while keeping the background in focus or to blur the background while keeping the object in focus:<br /><br />Blurring the object: <br />Blurring a moving object captures its motion. For example consider a car driving down the road. If you freeze such a scene with high shutter speed the viewer can not tell if the car is moving or if it is parked. However if you use a slower shutter speed the moving car is blurred and the feeling of motion conveyed. <br /><br />Blurring the background (panning):<br />Consider the same car from the above example. Another way to convey its motion is by blurring the background while keeping the car in focus. This is much harder to accomplish. The concept is simple: set the camera to a slower shutter speed. Pan the camera in a way that it follows the car. The car stays still at the same spot in the photo. Then shoot the photo as you continue panning the camera to keep it aligned with the moving car. The result is a car that is in focus while the background is blurred. <br /><br />What is the right shutter speed needed to capture motion? Unfortunately there is no magic number. The shutter speed depends on many factors such as the speed of the object, its distance and the amount of motion (or blurriness) that you would like to capture. As a rule of thumb shutter speeds faster than 1/250 of a second tend to freeze the scene while shutter speeds slower than 1/50 of a second tend to result in some blurriness. If the object is very slow you might need to keep the shutter open for even a second or more. If the object is very fast 1/50 of a second can be all that you need.<br /><br />It is very important to keep the camera steady when taking photos using slower shutter speeds. Usually when capturing motion in such a way you would need to stabilize the camera using a tripod or by putting the camera on a steady surface. The exception is when trying to blur the background of a moving object - since you need to pan the camera to keep it aligned with the object the camera inherently needs to move. The movement needs to be in the same speed and direction as the object and only in that direction. Sometimes such panning can be done using a tripod that allows control movement of the camera.<br /><br />Photos that capture motion are impressive. The only way to learn how to shoot such photos is by experimenting. Start with experimenting blurring the moving object. This technique is relatively easy and within a short time you will master it. Once you do try to experiment with blurring the background. This is much harder to achieve and can be frustrating at the beginning. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Information about photography and photo prints is on printrates.com - your home for photo prints Ziv Haparnas is a technology veteran. This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas writes about practical technology issues.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-7614992592521770628?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-48195452353931066802008-10-10T00:48:00.000-07:002008-10-10T00:48:01.018-07:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1451copy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1451copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></p><p>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/13 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/3.5<br />ISO: 400<br />Focal Length: 18mm<br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4819545235393106680?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-38012804322805183102008-10-09T01:04:00.000-07:002008-10-09T01:04:00.185-07:00by Andrew Chan<br /><br />Photography is a complex art which needs a lot of attention, and skills of thinking beyond the limits of normal human being. You need to put the best efforts into photography to come up with the best results. One can be a master of this art only after lots of practice and learning, but these two things are not enough to be a perfect photographer, you need to have passion for photography and to view the world behind the lens.<br /><br />Photography is one of the most fascinated professions for youngsters these days. Wildlife photography, nature photography, food photography, fashion photography and wedding and bridal photography are the most popular mode of photography. <br /><br />All the modes of photography have its own set of importance, but Wedding photography and bridal photography are more attached to the whole life of two human beings and their families. So, it's a kind of more important and special. As wedding is one time affair for people, they want to store all the memories of their wedding to remember and cherish for the whole life. Bride and groom both want to store every single moment spend during the wedding celebration in form of photographs or videos. So, they look for an expert photographer with enough experience to handle all the task of wedding photography efficiently.<br /><br />An expert wedding photographer is not a general photographer. He generally has experience of capturing thousands of snaps in hundreds of weddings in diverse set of customs and photography scenario. The work of an expert wedding photographer is to extract the best look out of bride and groom along with the best moments in best possible capturing angles. There is no place for anything less than the best in wedding and bridal photography. In bridal photography it's more important because a photographer has to display all the hesitation, excitement, glaze and anxiety of a girl who is going to marry. It's very tough to reflect all those true feelings, but an expert photographer knows how to do that.<br /><br />Thus wedding and bridal photography is really different than other modes of photography, because here you don't have independence of experimenting much, you have to experiment to a certain level, and the priority goes to the demand of bride and groom. This is a completely professional affair, and the photographer has to be professionally experienced to deliver the best service. <br /><br />About the Author<br />1stJournal is a group of professional wedding photographers in Singapore, Hong Kong and Australia. For more information about their services, please visit: http://www.1stjournal.com<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3801280432280518310?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-78073192900323586212008-10-08T00:47:00.000-07:002008-10-08T00:47:00.447-07:00<p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1446copy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1446copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br /></a></p><p>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/13 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/3.5<br />ISO: 400<br />Focal Length: 18mm<br />Exposure Program: Manual<br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-7807319290032358621?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-47924771405697160642008-10-07T01:04:00.000-07:002008-10-07T01:04:00.374-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Cameras can be held in two positions: horizontal or vertical (also knows as landscape and portrait). Photos taken in the vertical position are later on rotated 90 degrees (either clockwise or counter clockwise). Rotating the photos can be automated if your camera sports an orientation sensor.<br /><br />If you just take a few photos every now and then rotating them manually is not a big deal. Usually after downloading the photos to your computer you will browse through them and when viewing a photo that needs to be rotated you will fix it using your software rotate feature. However when taking hundreds or thousands of photos this process can become tedious and long. The good news is that this process can be automated if the camera you are using includes an orientation sensor.<br /><br />An orientation sensor is an electronic device built into the camera that can sense if the camera is held horizontally or vertically and if the camera is flipped or not (there are two vertical positions also known as 90 degrees or 270 degrees relative to the horizontal position). We will not get into the details of how this sensor works (there are a few options utilizing some physical feature such as gravitation or magnetic fields).<br /><br />When taking a photo the camera saves the orientation sensor reading as EXIT data included in the photo file. EXIF stands for Exchangeable Image File Format and it defines a set of tags and semantics that can be added to existing formats such as JPG and TIFF to provide more information about the photo. One such piece of information is the camera orientation. <br /><br />Software can later on use the EXIF orientation data to automatically rotate photos as needed. There are some options for how you can utilize this orientation data for your benefits, here are a few:<br /><br />Camera built-in rotation software: Some cameras include an automatic mode in which the camera rotates the photo based on the orientation reading immediately after the photo was taken using build-in rotation software. Using this mode the photos saved on the camera memory are already rotated in the right direction and no further processing is needed.<br /><br /><br />Photo download software rotation: Some software can automatically rotate photos as they are downloaded from the digital camera to the computer hard disk. Before saving a photo to the hard disk the software checks its orientation and rotates it as needed.<br /><br /><br />Batch photo processing: Software that perform batch operations on photos. Usually such software can do many common photo processing operations such as contrast enhancements, re-sampling, red eye removal and more. They can also rotate photos based on the EXIF orientation data.<br /><br /><br />Photo viewers: Some photo viewers can utilize the EXIF orientation data when displaying photos. As opposed to the other solutions in this case the photo file is never changed instead every time a photo is displayed on the computer screen the displayed image is rotated as needed based the photo EXIF orientation data. Some professionals prefer this method as it solves the need to rotate photos in order to view them while it does not change the original file. Rotating a photo can degrade its quality if not done properly and thus leaving the original file as-is and only rotating the viewed image is a good way to guarantee no quality loss.<br /><br /><br />Orientation sensors are a nice addition to the ease of digital photography. If you plan to take many photos and you want to save time by automatically fixing their orientation when downloading them to your computer check if your camera includes an orientation sensor and if it does not make sure that your next camera does include one. Today such sensors are usually included in more expensive cameras as orientation sensors have not become a standard feature in all digital cameras – at least not yet <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />This article can be published only if the resource box including the backlink is included. You can find more information on digital photo printing printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to digital photo printing Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology and science issues. Ziv Haparnas is an expert in technology.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4792477140569716064?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-7357744787706206632008-10-06T00:00:00.000-07:002008-10-06T00:00:02.354-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1491copy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_1491copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />Exif <br />Camera Model: Canon 400D <br />Shutter Speed: 1/4 sec. <br />Lens Aperture: F/3.5 <br />ISO: 400 <br />Focal Length: 18mm <br />Exposure Program: Manual<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-735774478770620663?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-34353455828377282372008-10-05T01:06:00.000-07:002008-10-05T01:06:00.386-07:00by Roberto Sedycias<br /><br />Tired of trying to keep updated with the highest mega pixel resolution digital camera? Well even if one has tried to do that, most certainly he will soon find out that his few months old digital camera is outdated in terms of mega pixel resolution. It's an ever changing kind of product that has become very hard to keep updated, unless one is willing to spend more money by making purchases every six to twelve months.<br /><br />If the main intention of purchasing a photo camera is enlarging the image, then mega pixel resolution indeed will become the main factor. In this case one might consider a different option, which will keep his product updated for years to come. I'm talking about a used 4x5" film photo camera, together with a high resolution flat bed film scanner. All of this for less than one thousand US dollars. With all of this, one will get over 100 mega pixels in fine detailed film resolution and fine scanned digital images that can be enlarged up to 30x40" in size with professional quality. These 4x5" film cameras have done a remarkable job in general personal and commercial photography such as wedding, portraiture, product, documentary, advertising and landscape for nearly a hundred years.<br /><br />Where to find 4x5" used film cameras? Since some of these cameras were mostly used in the past, until the 1960's, it should be no problem in finding them in American auction web sites. Anyway, a good used 4x5" camera with lens can be found for less than four hundred US dollars.<br /><br />As for the flat bed film scanner, one can find brand new ones for less than five hundred US dollars. Just make sure the scanner is able to scan films.<br /><br />Whenever purchasing a 4x5" film camera, one should look for the following features: folds into a compact box, flexible bellows, lenses that can be easily interchanged, accepts sheet film, ground glass focusing screen, easily handheld and optical viewfinder accessory.<br /><br />As for the lenses, there are four main categories: 1 - general purposes; 2 - wide field (mostly used for close up work and landscape); 3 – extreme wide angles lenses; 4 – special effects lenses (telephoto). However, one might use a general purpose 127 or 152mm lens for most of his photograph sessions. In cases where it requires special lenses, such as architecture or macro photography, one will still find lots of them available in auction sites. Used lenses for 4x5" cameras made after world word II have excellent performances comparable to today's modern lenses.<br /><br />Whenever making a purchase of a 4x5" camera make sure that: 1 - the bellows have no light leaks, 2 – the lens shutter works accurate at all speeds; 4 – the lens elements have no fungus and scratches of any kind; 4 – the focus is working properly between the ground glass and the film.<br /><br />The option of using a 4x5" film camera, together with a flat bed film scanner, for enlarging images with professional quality is viable and accessible. Cheaper than top digital cameras, the 4x5" film camera offers better image quality and will always be updated in the future, maintaining its original value.<br /><br />For those who wishes the very most detailed image enlargement, one can always use the 8x10" film camera. Four times the physical film size of the 4x5", this option offers so much film resolution that it is considered by many as the ultimate step for photo image enlargement.<br /><br />Sometimes analog products deliver better results that its digital counterparts. If you are doing the job of enlarging photo images, you should give it a try with a 4x5" camera. You might just surprise yourself. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />This article can also be accessed in portuguese language from the News Articles section of page PolomerCantil. Roberto Sedycias has a bachelor degree in Business Administration and over 20 years experience in systems analysis and computer programming. Currently working as IT consultant for www.PoloMercantil.com.br.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3435345582837728237?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-87071922285427212342008-10-04T00:42:00.000-07:002008-10-04T00:42:00.417-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/dhow_cruise_2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/dhow_cruise_2.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/3 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/3.5<br />ISO: 400<br />Focal Length: 18mm<br />Exposure Program: Normal<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8707192228542721234?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-7975497111921326292008-10-03T01:06:00.000-07:002008-10-03T01:06:00.494-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about science and technology. Ziv Haparnas is an expert technology writer. This article can be published and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Find more on photo printing and photography is on printrates.com - a place about photo printing So you have finally decided to backup those precious photos? There are a few ways to backup photos. In this article we will explain how you can backup your photos either yourself at home or by using an online backup service. <br /><br />Backing up to a DVD/CD<br /><br />Backing up to a DVD/CD is done by using a DVD/CD writer and software that can burn files on such media. Usually using such solutions requires more technical know-how. Backing up to a DVD/CD is a cheap solution. You can buy such writer drives and software for under a $100 and each DVD/CD media should cost much less than a dollar. One such software that is used by many is from the company Roxio.When backing up your photos to a DVD/CD please keep the DVD/CD in a safe place a good option would be somewhere out of your home maybe a family member's home, with a neighbor you can trust or with a friend. Another thing to remember with DVD/CD backups is that when you take new photos you should remember to refresh your backups. Usually unless your photo album is very big the easiest way to do that is just to burn again you complete collection.<br /><br />Backing up to an online backup service<br /><br />As many other services backup also found its way to the Internet. A number of sites provide backup services today for everything from digital photo albums to your word documents. Those services usually charge a monthly fee in the $10 to $20 but some provide a more limited service for free. The idea behind the service is simple: instead of backing up to a DVD/CD you upload your photos to a site and create copies there. The site stores the backups in a safe place far away from your computer. If a disaster happens and you need your files you can simply download them back from the site or have the site send you a DVD/CD with the files (not all provide the latter option). A broadband connection is needed in order to use this option.<br /><br />There are many advantages to using an online backup service. First they are usually very easy to use. Some provide software that you download and install on your computer. You point to the folder where your photos reside and the software takes it from there. It will make sure new files are uploaded to the backup service and that the backup is always fresh.<br /><br />Examples of sites that provide such service are: Streamload that starts with a basic FREE 10GB space (approx 10,000 photos at 2 megapixels) and Xdrive that starts from 5GB for $10 a month. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Ziv Haparnas is a technology veteran. This article can be published and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas writes about science and technology. More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about photo printing<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-797549711192132629?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-74449245172528818572008-10-02T00:36:00.000-07:002008-10-02T00:36:00.960-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/dhow_cruise_1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/dhow_cruise_1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/3 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/3.5<br />ISO: 400<br />Focal Length: 18mm<br />Exposure Program: Normal<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-7444924517252881857?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-11811234368520280202008-10-01T01:26:00.000-07:002008-10-01T01:26:00.288-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />The race for mega pixels has started and there is no way to stop it. Every few months cameras with more pixels hit the market. The manufacturers want you to dump your old camera and buy the newest and greatest one after all aren't 10 mega pixels better than just 8? Apparently the answer is not that simple.<br /><br />As with many other things when it comes to mega pixels more is not necessarily better. There are many considerations when buying a camera and the number of mega pixels is just one of them. One of the most important things to consider is usage. More mega pixels are good for people who plan to print photos (especially enlargements) or for people who need to zoom in and grab fine details from a big photo. If the main usage of the photos is watching them on your computer screen and maybe printing a few 4X6 prints than 2 mega pixels is more than enough (yes… just 2). Most screen resolutions are 1024X768 so even when viewing the photo in full screen mode you can only view 1024X768 < 1 mega pixels. A 2 mega pixels 4X6 photo print will have a DPI higher than 300 which is more than enough for a good quality print. <br /><br />If you plan to use your photos for enlargements than a rule of thumb is to be able to print at least 300DPI resolution. The following is a table for different print sizes and the needed mega pixels for such print quality:<br /><br />page 4X6 2MP<br />page 5X7 3MP <br />page 8X10 7MP <br />page 11X14 14MP<br />page 16X20 28MP <br />page 20X30 54MP<br /><br />Another practical consideration is price and budget: Usually the more mega pixels the more expensive the camera is. Unless your budget is infinite when buying a camera you make a compromise between mega pixels and other features. For example is it better to spend money on more mega pixels or on better lenses? Or maybe instead of getting the latest number of mega pixels get an external flash for low light photography? When buying a camera try to predict what and how you will use it. In many cases a lower mega pixels sensor with better a lens will result in a much better photo than a high mega pixels with an inferior lens. Shop around and make sure that you get the best package in terms of mega pixels and other features.<br />To conclude when shopping for a camera it is best not to be a victim of the mega pixels race. Although it is generally a good thing to have a high number of pixels there are many other factors that influence the quality of the photos taken and the choice of the right camera for you. Lenses, battery life, light sensitivity, sensor technology used, external flash and many other features are not less important as the number of mega pixels. When shopping for a camera make sure that you consider the whole package and not use the number of mega pixels as a "quality" indicator for your buy. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />This article can be reprinted as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas is an expert in technology. You can find more information on digital photo printing printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to digital photo printing Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology and science issues.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1181123436852028020?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-11231564410883462532008-09-30T01:06:00.000-07:002008-09-30T01:06:01.221-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Digital cameras are not different than other consumer electronic products. The cost of ownership is not limited to the sum paid to purchase the camera. In most cases consumers find themselves spending more money on accessories and other additional products. Failing to budget for those extra expenses can result in buying a camera just to find out it is not operable without spending more.<br /><br />When buying a new camera consumers usually compare the features of different cameras and the prices at different stores. However often consumers fail to check what is included with the camera they plan to buy or more importantly what is not included. Some attention to details is needed in order to assess the real cost of the camera and to budget accordingly.<br /><br />Following is a simple list of what to check and include in the budget of a new camera:<br /><br />Memory card: All digital cameras store photos on a memory device. Usually a removable memory card is used. Most cameras include a basic small memory card. For example many cameras today come with 32MB of memory. Such a small memory card can hold a small number of photos and is not practical. When buying a camera always make sure to check how much memory is included. Then assess how much memory you will need (for example if you are going to take a lot of photos and wont have a computer handy to dump them onto you will need a bigger memory card). The next step would be to check the prices of such memory cards and to budget it in your camera purchase.<br /><br />Batteries: All cameras include a battery that powers it up. There are many types of batteries for example standard AA or AAA or proprietary rechargeable batteries. Regardless of the type of battery when purchasing a camera check what batteries it uses and what batteries are included. Also check what the estimated battery life is. For example you probably need to buy an extra battery if your photo sessions are longer than the battery life. Make sure you budget the price of additional batteries before purchasing the camera. <br /><br />PC connectivity: Any digital camera will eventually be connected to a PC in order to download photos. The most common methods of connectivity are USB and plugging the camera's memory card directly to the PC. Make sure that your camera includes the USB cable needed to connect to the PC. If you prefer connecting the removable memory directly to your PC budget an adaptor that can bridge between the memory card and the slots available in your PC. <br /><br />Carrying case: Most cameras do not include a carrying case. For many consumers a carrying case is not a must have accessory. If you want to have a carrying case make sure you shop for the right one before buying the camera and that you budget its cost.<br /><br />Lenses: High-end cameras such as digital SLR often require additional lenses. When reviewing your camera check what lenses come with the camera. If you are an amateur or a professional photographer and you know you will need more lenses shop around for lenses that fit your camera and budget their prices. Lenses can be very expensive and sometimes can cost more than the camera itself. For example when buying an SLR camera for outdoor photography that requires zoom lenses make sure you budget such lenses that fit the camera you plan to buy.<br /><br />External Flash: In most cases an external flash is not needed. However it is good to check what external flashe devices are compatible with your camera and what their price range is. If you are an amateur or a professional photographer and you know that you will need an external flash in addition to your camera's built-in one make sure that you shop for one that can work with the camera and budget its cost before purchasing the camera. External flash devices prices can vary and can be a costly addition. Some high-end external flashes can cost more than the camera itself.<br /><br />In conclusion it is important to remember to budget not only the basic camera price but also the prices of the mandatory and optional accessories. For example if you are going to take indoor photos and you need a large memory card and an external flash make sure that you budget those accessories before purchasing the camera. Failing to do so can result in spending your entire budget on the camera just to find out it is useless without some more essential accessories and more spending. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about digital photo printing This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas writes about science and technology.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1123156441088346253?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-52627982960584110692008-09-28T01:06:00.000-07:002008-09-28T01:06:00.383-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Ziv Haparnas is a technology expoert. This article can be reprinted only if the resource box including the backlink is included. Find more on photo printing and photography is on printrates.com - a place about digital photo printing Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology issues. One of the more common dilemmas for people is choosing the paper size for printing their photos. Everybody knows that if your digital camera does not produce enough pixels (or actually megapixels) printing its photos on a large paper size will yield poor quality and you will be able to see the actual pixels (also known as pixelation) <br /><br />So how many megepixels do I really need in order to print on a specific paper size? there is no one right answer for that. The actual quality of the print depends on many factors other than the number of pixels. For example the paper quality itself the printing process that is used the lighting conditions when the photo was taken the photo itself (i.e. portraits are different than scenery) and much more.<br /><br />However a rough estimation of how good a picture will be based on the number of pixels can be calculated and is actually pretty easy to do. When evaluating how good a print will be there is a measurement that is simple to use and provides a good estimation for the quality - it is called PPI (pixels per inch). PPI is actually the number of pixels along one inch. To get a good print you would need a certain PPI (on both X and Y axis). <br /><br />Experiments show that the following qualities are usually associated with a specific PPI number:<br /><br />PPI 100 - fair to bad<br /><br />PPI 200 - good<br /><br />PPI 300 - very good<br /><br />So all we need to do now is to figure out for each paper size how many megapixels translate to those PPI numbers. To calculate this we need to simply multiply the page length by its width in inches. The result is the number of square inches on the page. Now multiply this number by the square of the PPI number and the result is the number of pixels on the page which is the number of pixels we want our source photo to have. Here are the numbers calculated for some common sizes (for 100,200 and 300 PPI respectively):<br /><br />page 4X6 0.24MP 1MP 2MP<br /><br />page 5X7 0.35MP 1.5MP 3MP <br /><br />page 8X10 0.8MP 3MP 7MP <br /><br />page 11X14 1.5MP 6MP 14MP<br /><br />page 16X20 3MP 12MP 28MP <br /><br />page 20X30 6MP 24MP 54MP <br />Again we would like to emphasize that these are just ballpark numbers. Factors like the ones mentioned above and also like the compression ratio used (low or high compression) and the aspect ratio difference between the paper and the camera can result in a need for more or less pixels. Our best advice is if you are not sure just try one or two photos before printing a large batch. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about science and technology. Ziv Haparnas is an expert in technology. You can find more information on digital photo printing printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to digital prints This article can be reprinted as long as the resource box including the backlink is included.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-5262798296058411069?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-28190938143713106852008-09-26T01:06:00.000-07:002008-09-26T01:06:00.644-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about science and technology. Ziv Haparnas is an expert technology writer. This article can be reprinted only if the resource box including the backlink is included. You can find more information on digital photo printing printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to digital photo printing How does auto-focus work?<br /><br />All of us use it every time we click on the shutter button. Practically all modern cameras include some sort of an auto focus system. Thanks to the auto focus system we can enjoy an easier photography experience and can concentrate on composing the right photo and capturing the moment rather than on manually setting the focus. <br /><br />Automatic focus though has its limitations. For example sometimes one might want to produce photos which are a bit fuzzy as an artistic expression. Also the auto focus implementation has its limitations and in some scenarios it might fail. One example is using a high end SLR camera with a passive auto focus system to take a picture of blue skies. In most cases the camera will move its motor back and forth and will eventually give up and fail to focus.<br /><br />To better use the auto focus system it would help to understand high it actually works. Although implementations can vary we can divide them all into two categories: passive and active. Most pocket cameras use the cheaper passive method while high end professional cameras use either the active or a combination of both.<br /><br />Passive auto focus:<br /><br />Passive auto focus can be perceived as imitating how we set the focus manually. The camera defines one or more regions in the picture (usually they are marked as rectangles on the viewfinder or the LCD). The camera then analyzes the picture seen through those regions and calculates a Focus Level number. The camera then tries to move its lenses back and forth as it recalculates the Focus Level. The camera looks for a position where the Focus Level is the highest. For that point if the Focus Level is above a predefined threshold the camera would define this region of the photo as being in focus. <br /><br />The Focus Level can be calculated in many ways. The common attribute of all calculations is figuring out how much Contrast is there in the photo. Although not in the scope of this article one way to calculate such a number is by running the photo through a high frequency filter – this is based on the fact that high contrast is associated with high frequencies.<br /><br />Active auto focus:<br /><br />Active auto focus works by measuring the distance between the camera and the object in the picture. Technically if you knew the exact distance to the object you are taking a picture of you could set the lens to the exact focus position. The active focus system shoots a beam of invisible light, usually infrared, at the object at the center of the picture and measures the distance to that object. Based on that distance the focus is set.<br /><br />Combined auto focus:<br /><br />Some high end cameras combine both systems. The camera will pick the right system for the specific scenario or will cross check and use both at the same time. The photographer can also decide manually to use one of the two options. For example when shooting blue skies the camera can try to use the active system and measure the distance. Since the distance is infinite the camera can set the focus and skip the passive focus. In other cases when the distance is not infinite the camera can use the active system to put the lens in approximately the right position and then use the passive system for fine tuning. In dark scenarios the camera can opt to use the active system since the passive one will not work.<br /><br />So why doesn't the auto focus work all the time?<br /><br />Even with all the electronics and computing power in the camera there will always be scenarios where the camera auto focus fails. Failure can be when the camera can not focus and the picture is fuzzy or sometimes when the picture is actually in focus but the camera "thinks" that it is not.<br /><br />What causes such cases? The list is long but here are just a few examples:<br /><br />- Taking low light pictures: The passive auto focus system needs to "see" the picture in order to work and in low light scenarios this is not possible. Some systems use a series of flashes to overcome this limitation but this solution fails many times. An active system can measure the distance to the object in such scenarios but will fail if the object is not in the center of the picture or if there are a few objects at different distances.<br /><br />- Active systems can fail with objects that tend to absorb the infrared beam they are using. Some materials absorb infrared beams and will cause the active system to measure the wrong distance. In some scenarios other infrared sources such as candles and open flame fires can render the active system useless.<br /><br />- Low contrast objects such as white walls or blue skies. The passive auto focus relies on the fact that the Focus Level changes significantly when moving the lens back and forth. This allows the camera to settle on the right focus position. The Focus Level of low contrast objects does not change much and fails the passive system.<br /><br />Knowing how the auto focus system works helps a photographer understand why sometimes the camera can not focus. In such scenarios the photographer can look for other solutions. Sometimes the photographer will have to use the manual focus. In other cases focusing on another object in the picture that is in the same distance but easier to focus on and locking the focus on that object will solve the problem. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Ziv Haparnas is a technology expoert. This article can be reprinted only if the resource box including the backlink is included. Find more on photo printing and photography is on printrates.com - a place about digital photo printing Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology issues.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-2819093814371310685?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-66874352563326732522008-09-24T01:06:00.000-07:002008-09-24T01:06:00.848-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Objects in good focus in a digital photo is a very basic requirement for high quality photography. There are two different ways to focus on such objects: manual or automatic. There are a few automatic focus methods – combined auto focus systems use more than one such method.<br /><br />High quality sharp and crisp digital photos are a result of many optical parameters that need to be set right. One of the most important optical parameters is focus. When objects in a digital photo are out of focus they look blurry and are missing details and clarity. When objects are in focus they look sharp and crisp. <br /><br />While the focus can be manually set by the photographer in most cases using the digital camera's automatic focus feature is much easier and faster. There are many different algorithms and methods that digital cameras use in order to automatically determine the right focus for a specific scenario. Such algorithms include passive and active auto focus. One type of combined automatic focus system uses these two algorithms to delivery superior automatic focus. <br /><br />Combined passive and active auto focus<br /><br />Active auto focus systems use distance sensors that measure the distance from the camera to the objects in the scene. Usually the camera measures the distance to the object or objects around the center of the photo. By knowing that distance the camera can then set the camera lenses to achieve good focus. One of active auto focus biggest advantages is that it can work in complete darkness. On the other hand active focus can fail in problematic scenarios such as when objects emit certain energies (like infrared) are photographed or when surfaces in the scene absorb the energy used to measure the distance.<br /><br />Passive auto focus systems use software that runs on the digital camera built-in computer. The camera executes such image processing algorithms to determine a Focus Level number. The exact way in which such a number is calculated is out of the scope of this article. Suffice is to say that the camera uses some image processing algorithms with which it can calculate how good the focus is. Using these algorithms the camera can find the best focus for the scene. In some scenes the passive auto focus is limited or not functional at all. It does not work well in poor lighting conditions and does not work at all in dark scenes. It is also hard to focus on low contrast objects such as walls or solid surfaces.<br /><br />Cameras that are equipped with combined auto focus systems pick the right system for the specific scene or cross check by using both systems at the same time. The photographer can also manually decide to use one of the two options. For example when shooting blue skies the camera can try to use the active system and measure the distance. Since the distance is infinite the camera can set the focus and skip the passive focus. In other cases when the distance is not infinite the camera can use the active system to put the lens in approximately the right position and then use the passive system for fine tuning. In dark scenarios the camera can opt to use the active system since the passive system will not work. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Information about photography and photo prints is on printrates.com - your home for digital prints This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas writes about science and technology.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6687435256332673252?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-11941184923854839972008-09-22T01:06:00.000-07:002008-09-22T01:06:00.679-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />In focus objects in a digital photo is a very basic requirement for high quality photography. There are two different ways to focus on such objects: manual or automatic. There are a few automatic focus methods one of them is known as active auto focus.<br /><br />High quality sharp and crisp digital photos are a result of many optical parameters that need to be set right. One of the most important optical parameters is focus. When objects in a digital photo are out of focus they look blurry and are missing details and clarity. When objects are in focus they look sharp and crisp. <br /><br />While focus can be set manually by the photographer in most cases using the digital camera's automatic focus feature is much easier and faster. There are many different algorithms and methods that digital cameras use in order to automatically determine the right focus for a specific scenario. One of those methods is knows as active auto focus.<br /><br />Active auto focus<br /><br />Setting the digital camera focus to its right position can be easy if only you knew the exact distance between the camera and the object or objects that you are trying to focus on. If you know the lenses that you are using, the aperture and all the other optical settings then by simply by knowing the distance to the object or objects in the digital photo the exact focus can be calculated and set. <br /><br />This is exactly how active focus works. Digital cameras that are equipped with an active auto focus system use distance sensors that measure the distance from the camera to the objects in the scene. Usually the camera measures the distance to the object or objects around the center of the photo. <br /><br />There are a few techniques to measure the distance. One of them is by using an ultrasonic sensor. Such a sensor transmits an ultrasonic signal toward the object. When the signal hits the object it bounces back and some of its bounced energy is received back by the digital camera sensors. The digital camera measures the time it took the signal to reach back the camera and since the speed of such an ultrasonic signal is known the distance can be calculated. Other methods use infrared signals. Once the camera determined the distance to the objects the focus can be set by calculating the exact position of the lenses and by moving the lenses to that position. <br /><br />Active auto focus has the advantage of working in complete darkness. Since the camera does not rely on measurements done on the captured photo the camera sensors can calculate the distance to the object in complete darkness and in focus high quality digital photos can be taken in scenarios where otherwise focus would have been impossible.<br /><br />Since the active auto focus method requires extra sensors it is more expensive to implement and is usually found in higher end digital SLR cameras. Active auto focus can sometimes fail. The reasons can vary: some objects tend to absorb the transmitted signal energy instead of bouncing it back while other objects actually radiate similar signals (for example candles radiate infrared energy) and can confuse the digital camera sensors. When the auto focus fails you can either try to focus on other objects in the same distance from the digital camera, lock the focus and pan back to the original objects you wanted to capture or you can revert to old fashion manual focus. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Ziv Haparnas is a technology expoert. This article can be published as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology and science issues. You can find more information on digital photo printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to photo printing<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1194118492385483997?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-45359668097570587532008-09-21T00:41:00.000-07:002008-09-21T00:41:00.631-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/burj_al_arab_3-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/burj_al_arab_3-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Lens Aperture: F/18<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 22mm<br />Exposure Program: HDR<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4535966809757058753?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-60999091110425456452008-09-20T01:06:00.000-07:002008-09-20T01:06:00.818-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />For most of us firing the flash is something that happens in the background and that does not require our attention.. Flash photography was not always so easy to use. Flash is useful in many situations for example when taking photos in dark scenes or when getting rid of shades in fill in mode. It is beneficial to know some facts about flash usage and how it works. <br /><br />Flash photography has been around for more than a hundred years. At first it was a dangerous and a manually controlled technology. It used powder that was literally ignited by either fire or electrical current. These flash solutions were both dangerous and hard to use since the flash was not automatically synchronized to the camera's shutter. This meant that the photographer had to manually synchronize the shutter and the flash making sure that the flash was fired at exactly the time when the shutter was being opened. Modern flash units use an electronic flash tube that is synchronized to the camera's shutter – relieving the photographer from the burden of timing the shutter and the flash.<br /><br />Here are some facts that are important to know about flash units and shooting photos using them:<br /><br />Internal flash units:<br />Internal flash units are built into the camera. They are controlled through the camera's menus and buttons. Internal flash units are usually small (limited by the camera size). As a result they are relatively weak units and only allow photography in dark conditions to a distance of a few feet. Internal flash units are easiest to use as they do not require any special settings or buying and installing accessories. In most cameras the internal flash can set to an automatic "point and shoot" mode in which the camera fires the flash whenever it senses that it is needed. Some low-end cameras can only use built-in flash units. Most cameras however support external flash units attached to the camera body. <br /><br />External flash units:<br />External flash units are either mechanically attached to the camera's body through a dedicated slide-in slot or are mechanically detached from the camera and only connected via an electrical synchronization cable. External flash units come in many sizes and have different features. They vary in intensity– how much light they generate and for how long - and in mechanical features – can they be tilted or skewed or are they fixed in relation to the camera's body. The external units are electrically connected to the camera allowing the camera to control the flash timing. Some connection standards also transmit advanced information to the flash unit such as the reading of the camera's light sensors, its optical settings and more. This allows smart external flash units to optimize their settings for shooting the best photo.<br /><br />Firing the flash:<br />The decision to fire the flash is either automatic or manual. The camera can fire the flash when there is not enough light available. In some scenarios the camera will not automatically fire the flash although doing so would have resulted in a much better photo. One such scenario is taking a photo during day time when the object is shadowed. For example if the object is wearing a hat the hat can block the light from the object's face or when the object is lit from the side the object's nose can block the light creating a shadow. In such scenarios the flash unit can be set to "fill in" mode. The flash will be fired to fill-in those shadowed areas but it will not be fired strong enough to wash out the photo. Another scenario is when the sun is behind the object. One example is taking a photo on the beach during a sunset. If taken without a fill-in flash the result will most likely be a silhouette of the object. If taken with a fill-in flash and the object in range the result will be a clear photo of the object against a sunset.<br /><br />Flash can also cause problems: <br />Shooting a photo using the flash can also cause problems. One such problem is washed out photos as a result of the flash being too strong or the object too close to the camera. Washed out photos do not have enough details and the object appears to be too white or too bright. Another problem is a photo with more details than in the original scene: in some scenarios the flash can create artificial shadows and lights which result in a photo that includes details that are exaggerated relative to their appearance in real life. For example when taking a photo of an older man using a flash the skin wrinkles and imperfections can look much worse than they really are in real life.<br /><br />Flash is limited:<br />It is important to know the limitations of the flash unit. Any flash unit has a certain amount of light that it can generate. Usually this amount can be translated to an effective flash range. When trying to take a photo with the object too far – more than the flash unit range – the object will appear dark. If you need to take a photo with your objects not within your flash unit range it is better to turn off the flash completely and use a tripod and long exposure. Using the flash in such scenarios can fool the camera into setting lower exposure which results in a photo darker than a photo taken without using the flash at all.<br /><br />It is important to know the flash unit that you are using and to get a feeling of when and how it should be used. The best way to accomplish that is by experimenting. With digital photography experimenting is practically free as there is no film development cost – take advantage of that and experiment shooting photos in different scenarios with and without a flash. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />This article can be reprinted as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Find more on photo printing and photography is on printrates.com - a place about digital photo print service Ziv Haparnas writes about technology and digital photography. Ziv Haparnas is an expert in technology.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6099909111042545645?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-80308921075515607122008-09-19T00:13:00.000-07:002008-09-19T00:13:02.210-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/burj_al_arab_3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/burj_al_arab_3.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 10 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 20mm<br />Exposure Program: Manual<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8030892107551560712?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-42133159028640781582008-09-18T01:06:00.000-07:002008-09-18T01:06:01.121-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Did you ever put your flash unit in manual mode? Did you ever manually turn on the flash when taking a day time outdoor photo? For many the answer to both questions is "no". For most amateur photographers flash is just a solution for taking photos when there is not enough natural light. Although a legitimate use of flash photography there is much more ways to efficiently use flash. In this article we will cover the various types of flash units available, the different scenarios under which they can be used, the advantages of using flash to achieve better photos and the common mistakes people do when using flash photography.<br /><br />As with any other technology knowing how it works behind the scenes and what your options are can help in better utilizing it for your advantage. Flash photography has been around for more than a hundred years. It started with a dangerous and manually controlled technology that used a powder that was lit by either fire or electrical current. These flash solutions were both dangerous and hard to use since the flash was not automatically synchronized to the camera's shutter. Modern flash units use an electronic flash tube that is synchronized with the camera's shutter. When turning the flash on the photographer does not need to worry about flash timing - the camera takes care of it automatically. <br /><br />There are two types of flash units: Internal and External. The internal flash unit is built-in to your camera. It can be controlled through the camera's menus. Some low end cameras only allow the use of their built-in units. Some low end cameras and all high end cameras also allow the attachment of an external flash unit. External flash units are either attached to the camera's body through a dedicated slide-in slot or are connected to the camera using a cable. They vary in strength – how much light can they generate for how long - and in mechanical characteristics – can they be tilted or skewed or are they fixed in relation to the camera's body. Regardless of the connection type external flash units are electronically connected to the camera and are synchronized with the shutter. <br /><br />When setting your flash unit to automatic mode the camera fires the flash in scenarios where not enough light is available. Many times the camera will make a wrong judgment and will either fire or not fire the flash when the opposite was needed. Also in some scenarios the camera will not be able to tell that firing the flash will actually result in a better photo. One problem when using a flash is washed out photos. When the flash is too strong or the object is too close to the camera the result is a washed out photo there are not enough details and the object appears to be too white or too bright. Another problem is a photo with too many details: in some scenarios the flash can create artificial shadows and lights which result in a photo that includes details that are exaggerated relative to their appearance in real life. For example when taking a photo of an older person skin wrinkles and imperfections can look much worse than they really are in real life.<br /><br />It is important to know the limitations of the flash unit. Any flash unit has a certain amount of light that it can generate. Usually this amount can be translated to an effective range for using the flash. When trying to take a photo with the object too far – more than the flash unit range – the object will appear dark. When trying to take a photo with the object too close to the camera the object will be washed out or too white. It is important to know your flash range and make sure that your object is within that range.<br /><br />If you need to take a photo with your objects not within your flash unit range it is better to turn off the flash completely and use a tripod with long exposure. Using the flash in such scenarios can fool the camera into setting a high shutter speed which results in a photo darker than a photo taken without using the flash at all.<br /><br />In some scenarios the camera will not automatically fire the flash although using the flash would have resulted in a much better photo. One such scenario is taking a photo during day time when the object is shadowed. For example if the object is wearing a hat the hat can block the light from the object's face or when the object is lit from the side the object's nose can block the light creating a shadow. In such scenarios the flash unit can be set to "fill in" mode. The flash will be fired to fill-in those shadowed areas but it will not be fired strong enough to wash out the photo.<br /><br />Another scenario is when the sun is behind the object. One example is taking a photo on the beach against a sunset. If taken without a fill-in flash the result will most likely be a silhouette of the object. If taken with a fill-in flash and the object in range the result will be a clear photo of the object against a sunset.<br /><br />In conclusion your flash unit can be a great tool. Although for many using the flash in automatic mode is enough for the more sophisticated photographer who wants to achieve higher quality photos understanding and experimenting with the flash unit can yield great results. Following some simple rules such as making sure objects are within the flash unit range and using fill-in flash when shadows can appear on the objects is easy and significantly improves your photos. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about science and technology. You can find more information on digital photo printing printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to photo printing This article can be reprinted as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas is an expert technology writer.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4213315902864078158?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-69782855496707896792008-09-17T00:07:00.000-07:002008-09-17T00:07:00.187-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/burj_al_arab_2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/burj_al_arab_2.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 10 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 20mm<br />Exposure Program: Manual<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6978285549670789679?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-40734567356560211992008-09-16T13:06:00.000-07:002008-09-16T13:06:00.541-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />If you are on the market for a new digital camera then there is a good chance that you are asking yourself that exact question. Maybe the number of megapixels that you are considering is different. Do you really need a 16MP digital camera? 8MP? 6MP? This article tries to help you answering this question.<br /><br />New digital camera models that are put on the market support more and more megapixels. This race for more megapixels is in part driven by manufacturers who want you to buy their newest and greatest digital camera and the easiest way for them to make you compare cameras is by using one simple number - megapixels - the higher the better or at least this is what they want you to think.<br /><br />But reality is different. When it comes to megapixels more is not necessarily better. Since most of us have a limited budget that we are willing to spend on a digital camera spending more money to get more megapixels means spending less on other features or accessories such as storage and lenses. The overall quality of your photography experience is dependent on such extra features. <br /><br />When deciding on the number of megapixels that you need you should first consider what your expected usage is. You need more megapixels if you plan to print photos (especially big enlargements) or if you need to zoom in and grab fine details out of big digital photos. On the other hand you do not need much if you plan to watch your digital photos on your computer screen and occasionally print a few 4X6 prints. In fact 2 megapixels are more than enough for such usage. Consider your computer screen resolution which is in most cases 1024X768 - even when viewing your digital photos in full screen mode you are only really watching 1024X768 < 1 megapixels. A 2 megapixels 4X6 photo print has a DPI higher than 300 which is more than enough for a good quality print. If you plan to print enlargements consider the following table for the recommended number of megapixels for different print sizes (based on print quality of about 300 DPI):<br /><br />page 4X6 2MP<br />page 5X7 3MP <br />page 8X10 7MP <br />page 11X14 14MP<br />page 16X20 28MP <br />page 20X30 54MP<br /><br />When considering spending more of your digital camera budget on getting more megapixels you should ask yourself questions like: should I instead get better lenses? Should I instead get an external flash unit? Should I instead get extra storage media? <br /><br />Don't be a victim of the megapixels race. In many ways the race for more megapixels is similar to the race for more megahertz on personal computers. In early days when computers speeds were slow - more megahertz was important. Today though having a 4Ghz or 5Ghz computer does not make a difference and you are better off spending more money on more memory than more megahertz. The same is true with megapixels in early digital cameras days the number of megapixels was low and it was important to get more. Today with most cameras having a high number of megapixels it is probably wiser to get better lenses or more storage than upgrading from 8MP to 10MP. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology issues. This article can be reprinted as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas is a technology veteran. You can find more information on digital photo printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to Sony and photo prints<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4073456735656021199?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-40528623497043388762008-09-15T00:59:00.000-07:002008-09-15T00:59:01.126-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/burj_al_arab_1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/burj_al_arab_1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 10 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 16mm<br />Exposure Program: Manual<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4052862349704338876?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-42293413616725601502008-09-14T01:02:00.000-07:002008-09-14T01:02:00.650-07:00by Caitlin Moore<br /><br />A quick search in Google or one of the other search engines can easily yield dozens of images from everyday life, snapped on camera phones, small pocket-sized digital cameras, or high-end digital SLR's. In many cases, camera phone images are so blurry as to be of little value, but they abound in the wide world of the Internet, and as small portable imagery devices get into more and more hands, the sheer volume of electronic images just continues to increase.<br /><br />Some people ask the question of whether the digital photography revolution is necessarily a good thing. It is easier, faster and cheaper than ever before to capture memorable moments for later viewing. Because of this, digital photos often feel more "real" than traditional film-based images, as dozens or hundreds of images can be snapped continuously at no cost without interrupting the flow of a moment in order to have participants re-create it "for a picture".<br /><br />Because of this essential freedom to review, arrange, and remove unwanted images, we are far more generous with our shutters than was generally the case with more expensive film-based methods of image capture. Because of inexpensive storage however, many people never bother to remove most unnecessary images, resulting in bloated virtual albums with duplicates, accidental pictures of thumbs, uninspiring shots of brick walls, pavement, and more.<br /><br />However, because of this essentially greater freedom to snap, some make the argument that many of our images have less value. This is tricky territory, however – who's to say that a plastic bag lying on the sidewalk isn't lovely, or that an overexposed picture of Fluffy the dog isn't artistic or as valuable as a more traditional family photo? In the end, there's not much point arguing about taste.<br /><br />One thing is certain, though – as more and more cameras find their way into more hands, the numbers of images available on line are sure to continue to multiply – and whether good, bad, or ugly, each of these images has meaning for someone. And when you get down to it, individual freedom is one thing we can all likely agree on. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Caitlin Moore is an avid photographer, and one the editors of dpdigest.com – an informative website dedicated to digital photography, with extensive information about digital storage devices, camera accessories, lighting kits and more.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4229341361672560150?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-46960170374055986552008-09-12T01:06:00.000-07:002008-09-12T01:06:00.635-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Digital photo frames are new products that replace old paper photo frames in displaying your photos on a desk, on a shelf or on a wall. This article explains what digital frames are, how you can use them and what you should look for when buying one.<br /><br />Digital photo frames are a good solution if you do not want to display your photos solely on your computer or on paper prints. Digital photo frames are an LCD screen with some electronics behind it that allows you to load photos and display them. Their design mimics old paper prints photo frames. Digital photo frames are thin devices and are designed to be placed on a desk, hung on a wall or put on a shelf. <br /><br />The price of digital photo frames varies and is mostly driven by their LCD screen size and quality. The cheapest ones start at around $50 and the expensive ones run in the hundreds of dollars or more. There are other features that influence both price and performance. Here are some features to consider when buying a digital photo frame:<br /><br />LCD size, resolution and brightness: The most important component of any digital photo frame is its LCD screen. The main purpose of a digital photo frame is to display photos and the LCD screen is the component that does that. Decide what LCD size you need based on the distance from which you will be viewing the photos. Check what the LCD resolution is and what the maximum brightness it supports. Brightness is extremely important if you plan to use the frame in an environment that is well lit � for example on your desk in an office that has big windows and a lot of sun light.<br /><br />Placement options: Make sure that the digital photo frame can be placed where planned. For example if you plan to put it on your desk make sure that it has the appropriate support for that and that it will be stable and in the angle you want. If you plan to hang it on a wall � make sure that the frame was designed for that and that it has the right accessories. <br /><br />Memory: Most digital photo frames do not have any built-in memory. Instead they rely on external memory cards that are plugged into a special slot. Check what memory card types are supported by the digital photo frame. Usually you would prefer that the card supported will be the same type as the card you are already using with your digital camera. <br /><br />Remote control: Some digital photo frames come with a remote control that enables you to remotely change the displayed photo, start a slide show and more. A remote control is important if you plan to control the frame often (for example plan to switch photos manually as opposed to a constant photo slide show) and if you plan to place the photo frame far from where you are (for example if the frame is on your desk right next to you a remote control is not needed but if it is hung on a wall a remote control can be useful). <br /><br />PC connection: Most digital photo frames can be connected to a computer. This can be useful if you want to load photos from a photo album on your computer hard disk. It is much easier to use a computer in order to choose the photos to display. The PC connection is usually done using a USB cable � although some newer photo frame models support wireless LAN (also known as Wi-Fi or 802.11). A PC connection is a good feature if you plan to load photos often. Wireless support is more expensive and you should choose a frame that supports wireless only of its location is going to be far from the computer and a cable connection will not be convenient � for example if your digital photo frame is permanently hung on a wall a wireless connection is much easier to use than a USB cable.<br /><br />Non photo features: Digital photo frames include a micro computer that implements photo display logic. Manufacturers found out that with some software changes and minimal added cost they could support more features that really had nothing to do with displaying photos. Examples of such features are: MP3 player, video playback and TV tuner. It is nice to have those added features but it is not a good idea to make your buying decision based on them. Digital frames are usually not the optimal device to play music or videos (for many reasons such as that they are usually located in the wrong place for that, they have low quality speakers and, acoustic and their screen is too small). It is better focus on the basic photo display features such as LCD size, brightness and resolution and only if these are satisfactory to check what other features are available.<br /><br />Before you buy your digital photo frame take a moment to figure out how you will use it and what your expectations are. Digital photo frames are great products but they do have limitations. Choosing the right digital photo frame and having it on your desk rotating slowly through your photo album is a great experience � one that you could not have before the digital photography days. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology issues. This article can be reprinted only if the resource box including the backlink is included. Information about photography and photo prints is on printrates.com - your home for digital prints<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4696017037405598655?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-44010927674753860332008-09-10T01:26:00.000-07:002008-09-10T01:26:00.748-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Digital noise in photos taken with digital cameras is random pixels scattered all over the photo. It is a similar effect as "grain" in film photography and it degrades the photo quality. <br /><br />Digital noise usually occurs when you take low light photos (such as night photos or indoor dark scenes) or you use very slow shutter speeds or very high sensitivity modes.<br /><br />When taking pictures with a digital camera an electronic sensor (also known as a CCD) built from many tiny pixels is used to measure the light for each pixel. The result is a matrix of pixels that represent the photo.<br /><br />As with any other electronic sensor the CCD is not perfect and includes some noise (also know as white noise to hint on its randomness attribute). In most lighting the light is significantly stronger than the noise. However in extreme scenes where the light is very low or when a high amplification is needed noise levels can become significant and result in pixels in the photos that include more noise data than real photo light data. Those pixels usually appear as random dots or stains on the photo (for example white dots scattered randomly on the photo).<br /><br />Understanding digital noise in various scenes:<br /><br />low light (night photos or dark scenes): when the scene is dark the amount of light measured by each pixel of the CCD is low. When the light intensity is very low it can become too close to the level of noise naturally found in the CCD. In such cases some pixels can appear as noise because the noise level measured for them is significantly close or higher than the actual light intensity.<br /><br />slow shutter speeds: when the shutter is kept open for a long time more noise will be introduced to the photo. A slow shutter speed translates to the CCD integrating more light per pixel. The effect can be easily understood as the CCD "accumulating" light in each pixel and measuring the total light over the shutter period of time. However at the same time the CCD is also "accumulating" noise. For that reason in slow shutter speed photos some pixels will appear as noise because for these pixels the amount of noise integrated is significantly close to or higher than the actual light measured.<br /><br />high sensitivity modes: high sensitivity in digital photography is implemented by mechanisms that result in amplification. The CCD amplifies the measurements it takes. However there is no way to just amplify the actual photo light that falls on the CCD pixels instead the noise and the actual light are both amplified. The result is that the CCD becomes sensitive not only to light but also to its own noise. When too much amplification is applied some pixels will appear as noise.<br /><br />While it is impossible to completely prevent digital noise there are a few options that allow you to significantly decrease it. When taking photos in low light scenarios such as night photos there are two main parameters to play with: sensitivity and shutter speed. Raising sensitivity creates more internal noise in the CCD while slowing down the shutter allows for more noise to integrate on the CCD. The amount of noise generated by both parameters is different. It is recommended that you set your camera to manual mode and play with a few different sensitivity/shutter speed pairs to find out the one that generates the least noise. <br /><br />Some cameras include a built-in feature called "noise reduction". Noise reduction is implemented by sophisticated software that can identify the noise pixels and remove them. For example the software can identify the noise pixels based on their randomness and usually extreme intensity gap between them and their neighboring pixels. Removing the noise can be implemented by interpolating a replacement pixel value based on its neighboring pixels.<br /><br />If you do not have a built-in noise reduction feature or it does not work properly you can use a PC based software that removes digital noise. Many photo processing software include a combination of automatic and manual digital noise removal. Some software packages can also use a few photos of the same object to "average" them and thus remove the noise (relying on the fact that digital noise is random and the noise pixels will be different in each photo taken). <br /><br />To conclude digital noise should be understood by any amateur or professional photographer. However for most photographers digital noise is not a practical problem even in low light scenarios usually digital noise is minimal and can be significantly reduced by simply turning on your camera's noise reduction feature. For professional photographers who shoot in more extreme conditions digital noise can present a real problem and can be dealt with using a combination of optimizing the camera settings and removing noise with professional software. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />More information on digital photo printing and photography is available on printrates.com - a site about photo printing Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology and science issues. This article can be published only if the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas is a technology expoert.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-4401092767475386033?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-16547886321524561162008-09-08T01:26:00.000-07:002008-09-08T01:26:00.592-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />There are many reasons to keep an updated and complete inventory of your home or office. One reason is for easier insurance claims in cases of disaster, burglary, lost or other damages. This article will give you some tips for effectively creating and keeping such inventory.<br /><br />The first two steps for creating your inventory are to decide on a method of cataloging your items and to create a list of the items to document. For example you can choose to catalog your items by where they are placed (e.g. by room) or by their type (electrical appliances, paintings, books and more). Choose the system that works best for you. The next step is to create a list of items that you would like to document. The simplest way to do this is by using a piece of paper and a pen. Go over all the items and write down which ones you intend to document. Later on when you take the digital photos make sure to cross out the items as you photograph them.<br /><br />There are some simple suggestions that you can follow in order to create a better catalog:<br />Follow good digital photography rules: Inventory digital photos are like any other photos and you should follow the basic photography rules of good lighting, composition and camera settings.<br />Use the right background: Make sure that you stage the right background for each item. You would want to stage a background that is in contrast with the item. Also make sure that the background is a matte color and that it does not reflect light. For example when taking a photo of a black computer mouse and keyboard use a white or light gray background.<br />If possible leave items in their original place: It is better to take a good digital photo of an item without moving it from its original place. Sometimes this will not be possible – in such cases take one digital photo of where the items is usually placed – even if this photo is not very good – and then move the item to take some good digital photos.<br />Take digital photos that prove you own the item: For each item take at least one digital photo that proves that this is indeed an item that you own. For example make sure that your living room is in the photo when taking a digital photo of your TV. Alternatively you can take photos of either you or someone you know with the item. <br />Take close up digital photos of important details: Take as many digital photos as needed that show specific details of the item that are important to assess its value, to replace it or to convey its importance. For example take close up digital photos of the sticker detailing the model number and brand or take close up digital photos of a signature and copy numbering on an expensive painting.<br />Use known objects to convey items size: If capturing an item size is important you can use a known size object in order to help future viewers visualize the item's size. For example if you are taking digital photos of an expensive Persian rug you can have someone lie down on the rug or place a measurement meter on it <br />Use supportive material: When creating an inventory it is better to collect more information than less. If you have supportive documents such as receipts, warranty cards or work orders you can scan them into digital files and save them along with your digital photos. Make sure to name the files in a way that is easy to associate with the corresponding digital photos.<br />Backup the photos and put them in a safe place: This is probably the most important advice. An inventory is useless if you can not use it at time of need. Make sure that you back up the digital photos (for example on a DVD) and put them in a safe place (usually your home is not a safe place in that regard – put it at a friend or family house). You can make more than one copy to put in multiple places. Another solution is to use one of the many online file archive services<br />Keep your inventory fresh: Every now and then you will buy a new item or retire an old one. Make sure to take digital photos of the new items and update your inventory.<br /><br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />This article can be reprinted only if the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas is an expert in technology. You can find more information on digital photo printing and photography in general on printrates.com - a site dedicated to photo prints Mr. Haparnas writes about practical technology issues.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-1654788632152456116?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-71599059283065940242008-09-06T21:26:00.000-07:002008-09-06T21:26:01.023-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Candles are a unique light source. Using candlelight to light a scene can result in breathtaking photos. Candlelight temperature is different than flash, daylight or regular bulb light. Using candlelight is hard and requires experience. This article will provide you some basic ideas to start experimenting with.<br /><br />Candles can be used in a few ways: they can be a light source that lights an object in the photo but not appear in the photo themselves. They can be used as a light source and also participate as an object in the final photo or they can participate as the solo object in the photo (or in other words simply a candles photo). <br /><br />Remember to eliminate other light sources: The goal of candlelight photos is to achieve an effect that is based on the unique characteristics that candlelight provides such as its warmth. In order to maximize this effect you should make sure that there are no other light sources that contaminate the scene. A simple test for that is to blow off all the candles and make sure that the scene is completely dark. It goes without saying that you should make sure that your digital camera's flash is set to the off position. In some cases a small amount of additional light source can be used. After experimenting and gaining experience with candlelight photography you will get a sense of when allowing some other light to penetrate the scene makes sense and in which angles and intensities. <br /><br />Candlelight is not as strong as other light sources. It is much weaker than your digital camera's flash. For that reason candlelight photography will almost always result in low light slow shutter speed photography. Although it is recommended that you use a setup in which you maximize the aperture width and minimize the shutter speed it is likely that you will end up having to use slow shutter speeds. There are a few things you need to consider: Camera shakings - these can be eliminated by using a tripod or by placing the camera on a stable surface and using timer photography. Objects movements: if objects move during the period in which the shutter is open the photo will appear smudged. Make sure that the objects you are photographing do not move and that people do not blink. Another movement source is the movement of the light source itself. Candles tend to flicker, although it is hard to completely eliminate this phenomenon and some flicker is actually welcome in order to get a good candlelight effect - it is recommended that you prevent extreme flicker. This can be done for example by making sure that there is no wind blowing in the scene, that the candles are on stable surfaces and that they were lit for a while and burn consistently. Determining the right shutter speed is also hard. Since the candles light is bright on one and but on the other hand is concentrated in a small area and weak once farther from the candle most cameras ambient light measurements and automatic shutter speed settings will be wrong. Using the camera automatic setting is a good start. Try to take a few photos with slower and faster shutter speeds and explore the results.<br /><br />The amount of light in the scene depends on the number of candles that are used. Since candles are not a strong light source you would usually need to use a few candles. Sometimes you would only like to have a small number of candles appear in the photo itself but you would still need to have more candlelight in the scene. In such cases you can use extra candles to light up the scene but keep those candles out of the composed photo. When you do that, make sure that the additional candles are placed in a way that make sense - for example - that they do not create shades that do not appear not normal in relation to the candles in the photo.<br /><br />Lighting is an art. Using candlelight as a light source is an art by itself and requires experience. There are some basic rules for candle positioning. For example it is clear that the candles should be closer to the camera than the objects. Otherwise the result will be a silhouette of the objects. Different lighting angles create different shades and different effects. For example if you are photographing a person and the candles are placed in a low position relative to the person's face you will get a more scary effect. On the other hand, if the candles are placed at the same height as the person's face you will get a warmer and softer effect. It is hard to provide candle positioning rules and such positioning greatly depends on the effect that you are looking for. More than one candle can be used with each at a different position to create more complicated effects and to eliminate unwanted shades. The best advice is to take many photos and experiment with different candle positions and angles. <br /><br />Last but not least is white balancing. Digital cameras can be set to compensate for the specific light source that is used. Although most cameras can automatically detect and set their white balancing offset it is better to manually set the white balance - most cameras include a candlelight source as an white balance option. It is also worth experimenting with setting the white balance to the wrong source on purpose. Set the white balance to different temperatures to achieve different effects, more reddish photos for example.<br /><br />To conclude, candlelight photography is hard - it requires a lot of experience and understanding of lighting, shutter speeds and other photography issues. On the other hand such experience pays off with breathtaking photos and effects that sometimes appear more like artist paintings than photographs. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. Ziv Haparnas is a veteran technologist. Find more on photo printing and photography is on printrates.com - a place about digital prints<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-7159905928306594024?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-64255093191462515382008-09-04T21:26:00.000-07:002008-09-04T21:26:00.625-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Many ask this question. The answer is that most likely you can – but the amount of money you can make varies a lot and it depends on the uniqueness of your photos, their quality and your selling abilities. Here are a few hints and concepts when it comes to making money from your photos.<br /><br />First of all you need to set expectations as to how much money you can make. This article is for readers that are looking to make some extra cash from their photos not looking to turn their photos into their main stream of cash. Such extra cash can be used for example to cover the spending on their photography hobby or selling photos can just be a fun experience. <br /><br />One thing you can try to do with your photos is to sell them online. There are many websites that let you sell photos. The basic idea behind most of them is simple: they let you upload your photos, showcase them and set their prices. The site users can browse through your photos and purchase the ones they like. Addition features allow users to write comments about your photos. This is a fun way to get feedback from viewers and to connect to new people with the same interests as yours. Some of these sites are free to use and only collect a commission from the proceeds. Other sites charge a setup fee or a membership fee. Examples of such sites are: www.photostockplus.com and www.smugmug.com<br /><br />In addition some sites allow you to set two prices: one is for a non exclusive right to use the photo – this is the price someone pays to download the photo and use it – while others can download the same photo and use it too. An exclusive price is usually much higher and means that once a user buys the exclusive usage rights for the photo you can not sell it to anyone else (or use it yourself). Once a photo is sold under the 'non exclusive" option – it can not be exclusively purchased. <br /><br />You can also decide to build your own website to either sell your photo on it or make money from advertisement on the site. If your photos are unique and can attract viewers you can create a blog or a site with your photos alongside with some text describing them and the story behind taking them. Spread the word about your site to your friends and family and post information about it in forums and chat boards. Once you generate traffic add advertisements to your site. To create your site you can use tools such as www.blogger.com and www.typepad.com. To place advertisements you can use advertisement syndication networks like www.google.com/adsense and publisher.yahoo.com.<br /><br />Another more conventional method is to sell your photos in coffee shops and galleries. It requires more legwork and a more significant upfront investment. Print and frame a few of your best photos. Go to local galleries and try to convince them to showcase your photos. It is best to start with just a few prints to minimize both your risk and the risk the gallery takes. Another option which can work better for amateur photographers is to visit coffee shops and restaurants and convince them to hang the photos on their walls. It is very common today for such places to hang "photographs for sale" on their walls. This is a win-win option for both the coffee shop or restaurant and you. They get high quality free photos and provide their customers with an extra service buying photos that they really like. You get free exposure while most often only paying a commission from the proceeds.<br /><br />Copyright is one issue you should consider when selling or posting your photos online. Copyright laws vary from state to state and country to country. Make sure that you check beforehand that you do have the rights to sell or post your photos online. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Ziv Haparnas is a veteran technologist. Information about photography and photo prints is on printrates.com - your home for digital prints This article can be reprinted only if the resource box including the backlink is included. Mr. Haparnas writes about technology and digital photography.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-6425509319146251538?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-84378003109510347132008-09-03T01:00:00.000-07:002008-09-11T22:07:19.047-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_9450.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_9450.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 1/125 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/4.5<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 35mm<br />Exposure Program: Manual<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-8437800310951034713?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-37678964350015997642008-09-02T01:26:00.000-07:002008-09-02T01:26:00.493-07:00by Ziv Haparnas<br /><br />Many of us do not think twice about the usage of our digital camera's flash assuming that the camera will use the flash automatically as needed. Flash however can and should be manually set in many scenarios resulting in high quality digital photos.<br /><br />The most common usage of flash photography is when there is not enough ambient light for example when taking an indoor digital photo in a dark room. There are many other ways in which you can use your digital camera's flash to get high quality digital photos. One such usage is fill-in flash. <br /><br />Before setting your flash to manual mode and making more efficient usage of it you should know a bit more of the technology and history behind flash photography. Flash photography has been around for more than a century. During the early days of photography flash was implemented as a powder that was literally lit by either fire or electrical current. At that time flash photography was a risky business. Digital cameras today use a safe implementation by utilizing electronic flash tubes that are automatically synchronized with the camera's shutter. <br /><br />You have two options for using flash with your digital camera. The first option is using the digital camera internal flash. Practically all digital cameras have build-in flash units. Most cameras also allow the usage of an external flash unit. Such flash units can be either mechanically attached to the digital camera or they can be connected to the camera via a cable and mechanically positioned on a tripod or any other mechanism. They are synchronized and controlled by the digital camera. External flash units vary in price and features. They can have different maximum light energy that they can emit and different mechanical capabilities (tilting, skewing).<br /><br />In automatic flash mode the camera sensors evaluate the amount of ambient light in the scene. The digital camera fires the flash if the amount of ambient light is not high enough. There are limitations to the cameras automatic sensors resulting in either firing the flash when it was not needed or vice versa. <br /><br />In some scenarios the usage of flash can result in poor digital photos. For example when the object is too close to the digital camera the flash light will be too strong and will wash out the object. Another example is in scenarios where the flash creates unwanted shadows in the digital photo. Yet another example is exaggeration of details such as when shooting a digital photo of an older person the skin wrinkles and imperfections details can be overly detailed.<br /><br />Digital camera's flash units have a certain effective range. This is a limitation of how much light energy the flash unit can emit. Internal flash units usually have shorter range than external flash units. If the object in the photo is outside of the flash range – the flash will not be effective and the object will be dark. On the other hand if the object is too close to the flash unit or the flash unit emits too much energy the object will be washed out. If your object is outside of your flash unit effective range you should turn off the flash and use slow shutter photography preferably with a tripod or another stabilizing mechanism. If your flash units allows the setting of the light energy that will be fired (usually by setting the distance to the object) – make sure that it is set right to prevent washed out objects.<br /><br />In some scenarios there will be enough ambient light to take a digital photo but without the usage of the flash the digital photo quality will be very poor. In such scenario if the camera is left on automatic flash mode it will not fire the flash. For example daytime photography with an object that is shadowed. If the object is wearing a hat it can create shades on the object's face or when the object is lit from the side the object's nose can create shades too. Putting the flash in manual fill-in mode will force the flash to fire. The flash will lit those shadowed areas and prevent the shades in the final digital photo. The object of course must be in effective flash range. Another example is an object that is lit from behind such as when taking a digital photo of an object against a sunset. Without a fill-in flash the photo will likely be just a dark silhouette of the object. <br /><br />These were some basic concepts behind flash usage. There are many other advanced options for your digital camera flash. For example bounce flash can result in great digital photos – in that mode instead of pointing the flash directly at the object it is pointed to some reflecting surface like a wall or a special reflector. The result is more natural light and color rich digital photos. <br /><br /><b>About the Author</b><br />Mr. Haparnas writes about technology and digital photography. Ziv Haparnas is a technology expoert. Information about photography and photo prints is on printrates.com - your home for digital photo printing This article can be published and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included.<br /><br />Disclamer:<br />The opinions expressed by authors in this blog are their own and in no way represent the opinions of the owner and or administrator of molophoto blog. Molophoto bears no responsibility for any opinion expressed by any contributing author and or article.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-3767896435001599764?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4875824039779556784.post-7293199364924983902008-09-01T01:09:00.000-07:002008-09-01T07:02:02.245-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_9784_small-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/molodxb/IMG_9784_small-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Exif<br />Camera Model: Canon 400D<br />Shutter Speed: 13 sec.<br />Lens Aperture: F/8<br />ISO: 100<br />Focal Length: 10mm<br />Exposure Program: Aperture Priority<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4875824039779556784-729319936492498390?l=molophoto.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>molodxbhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07403103821045319464noreply@blogger.com0